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flhtc tranny problems

You can use an impact wrench for the removal of the nuts on the compensator and the clutch. Do not use it for reinstalling the nuts.
I would not use a torch, to many bad things can happen.
Also if your '91 is the same as my '92 flhtc was you will need a special tool to remove the clutch pressure plate, don't try to pry the snap ring out without the tool the plate will break, I know from experience. As previous replies have stated, get a service manual before you start, its a good investment.

You sure you want to chance wrecking the magnets with an air wrench? HMMMMM, not me :s
 
All very good advice I will take great heed to. The simple fact is simple...deer are stoopid!. I also like the locking device, I had found a design for a tool for it made of 1/4 in steel, but the socket and extension looks the part and I already have one! As for the stator, it is going to be replaced anyway. What is everybodys feelings on going from a 32 amp to a 36 amp system? I do not have alot of accys but I may be adding a newer stereo (cassette tapes are becoming a bit rare). I am off to order a service manual now, a genuine one. Thank you again for all of the input. I'll be back with an update hopefully soon. My old lady is chomping at the bit to get back in the wind. Possiably more than I am, damn she's cool!

BTW Jack, explain zip tying the primary chain to the tensioner please.
 
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First, as others have stated, get the factory Service Manual for your bike and follow the directions to the letter.

I also thought I was going to need an air wrench to get my compensator nut off but I accomplished the task with the HD primary locking tool, a medium amount of heat, and a LONG breaker bar using continuous pressure from the legs and lower back for oomph instead of sharp blows like an air wrench would deliver.

In my service manual, it instructs you to zip tie the primary chain tensioner in the fully compressed position before removing it. Says nothing about actually zip tying it to the chain itself.

Hope this helps!
 
Gotcha, I have my service manual on order, should be getting it in the mail soon. In the meantime trying to learn as much as I can from you guys. Thanks to all again for your knowledge and patience.

First, JDP, that socket and extension trick was fantastic! A little heat from a torch did the trick for breaking off the compensator nut, it came right off. Thanks again for the advice. Next, the rear of the primary case, waiting for my manual to proceed. However, it looks as if my stator might be bad, My charging system has been weak, it starts off strong when I first start the bike each day but quickly fades to barely over 12 volts once warmed up and running. Guess now is as good a time as any to put a new one in.
 
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What is everybodys feelings on going from a 32 amp to a 36 amp system?

Here is the bottom line scoop.

On your 2001 bike, is your stator a 2 wire output or a 3 wire output. If you are single phase right now, it would be a HUGE benefit if it was possible to convert to a 3 phase system. If I had a single phase bike, I would do whatever it would take (within reason) to upgrade to 3 phase even if I really did not need it.

The biggest benefit of three phase is increased charging current at low RPM such as idle. There is also benefit at high RPM but nothing like it is at idle and low RPM. Three phase can not be matched in the low RPM range, so much so I would rather have a 32 amp three phase over a 38 amp single phase system.
 
One more plus of the bigger Alternator kit is it is better made IMO the magnets are better:s
 
Wood may work for you but it is entirely to soft and the teeth on the sprockets will chew it up, and youll have wood in your primary . youll be better off with the correct tool.

You are correct, but then the nut seems to have gotten progressively tighter over the years. Earlier threads including using wood, then stacked hard plastic blocks, to metal bars. The key to all this is...yes, there are many ways to "skin a cat" but the one that fits your needs and pocketbook that works is the answer, as that HD tool is pretty expensive for a one time deal. :s BTW JDPEagle, that was a pretty clever method. :D
 
Here is the bottom line scoop.

On your 2001 bike, is your stator a 2 wire output or a 3 wire output. If you are single phase right now, it would be a HUGE benefit if it was possible to convert to a 3 phase system. If I had a single phase bike, I would do whatever it would take (within reason) to upgrade to 3 phase even if I really did not need it.

The biggest benefit of three phase is increased charging current at low RPM such as idle. There is also benefit at high RPM but nothing like it is at idle and low RPM. Three phase can not be matched in the low RPM range, so much so I would rather have a 32 amp three phase over a 38 amp single phase system.
Great advice Hoople, will go thatbroute since I have her dow, Low rpm voltage is my main problem anyway. Is the connecting wiring to the regulator the same and if so is that the only difference?
 
Of course you would need a 3 phase regulator that matches the stator. The wiring is a snap, no biggie there that I see. Of course the challenge to the entire conversion would be mounting the new stator, making sure the new rotor clears and aligns with the stator and the new rotor slides over your crankshaft. I just don't know if HD made any compensator changes/ crankshaft changes/ stator mounting hole changes/ etc,,that would create a problem during installation. As far as electrical, it should be a snap. Mounting the pieces in place, I really can't say.

If it is as easy as I think it is,,, someone must already make some aftermarket kit. Have you seen any kits in the J&P catalog that converts your single phase to 3 phase? If you don't, that may raise a red flag.

(I assume you ARE single phase right now.. correct?)
 
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