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Dyna Wide Glide 2010 Skips or Acts Like It's Shutting Down

Well, I checked the codes which were b1006 and b1007. Which is equivalent to an "ignition line overvoltage" and "accessory line overvoltage. That translates into part 68921-07 module turn signal and 67478-09 speedometer. Basically,(EDIT) $500. It has 6k on the odometer.

I think my Harley days are coming to an end. I really am fed up with high prices and unreliability.

Thanks for for everyone's feedback.

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Well, I checked the codes which were b1006 and b1007. Which is equivalent to an "ignition line overvoltage" and "accessory line overvoltage. That translates into part 68921-07 module turn signal and 67478-09 speedometer. Basically $500. It has 6k on the odometer.

I think my Harley days are coming to an end. I really am fed up with high prices and unreliability.

Thanks for for everyone's feedback.

You are aware that a low or bad battery will cause erroneous codes. So going back to most of the posts have you properly load tested the battery???? Maybe the regulator is working overtime to charge a garbage battery. Always start with the common things first. I would hate to see $500.00 tossed at bike and it did not correct problem.......:shock
 
You are aware that a low or bad battery will cause erroneous codes. So going back to most of the posts have you properly load tested the battery???? Maybe the regulator is working overtime to charge a garbage battery. Always start with the common things first. I would hate to see $500.00 tossed at bike and it did not correct problem.......:shock

I will have the battery load tested, but I cannot relate how the speedometer dropping to 0 mph and snapping back would be in the battery. It turns the motor over after which should set idle accepting a charge while the bike is in motion.
 
I will have the battery load tested, but I cannot relate how the speedometer dropping to 0 mph and snapping back would be in the battery. It turns the motor over after which should set idle accepting a charge while the bike is in motion.

It comes down to having proper voltage. Especially on the newer bikes with all the electronics. The older bikes only had to have enough battery voltage to fire the ECM. With the different modules and systems that pull on batteries nowadays, it is critical that battery is a 100%.
Fortunately nowadays, failing batteries just will not start the bike one day. There is usually early warning signs of battery failing and what you are experiencing maybe one of the warning signs.
 
IN looking at the Elect. manual for my 2012 it shows Over Voltage as you stated. However I didn't read anything other than pointing to +16Vdc at the Speedo for more than 5 sec.. Most electronics have a High & Low voltage to shut them down prior to burn up. I would check you charging system after getting the battery straight. If it is putting out more than 15 V dc then something is wrong with it.
tourbox
 
IN looking at the Elect. manual for my 2012 it shows Over Voltage as you stated. However I didn't read anything other than pointing to +16Vdc at the Speedo for more than 5 sec.. Most electronics have a High & Low voltage to shut them down prior to burn up. I would check you charging system after getting the battery straight. If it is putting out more than 15 V dc then something is wrong with it.
tourbox

Last year I installed a back turn-signal/break light extender kit in the back for a removable backrest. It was all HD OE parts. This entailed having to make a complete wiring harness from the light to the front seat. The workmanship is good as I do it for a living. However, I am not going to rule out there could be short or bad connection.

I am just hoping it doesn't ultimately end up being HD parts.
 
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