Down-Shifing to 1st Gear

[fin_676]

Having many years riding bikes of all types mainly European but some from the far east and a few Harley's my slowing down procedure has developed to work with all Ive ridden
i do go down the gears as i slow down but it is assisted by use of the rear brake i do blip the throttle on down shifts (gives a much smoother shift on old British bikes)
just prior to coming to a standstill i pull in the clutch go into first then into neutral just before stopping (this really helps find neutral on older gearboxes)
on some of the older bikes if you came to a standstill in top gear it was very difficult to come down the gears at a standstill (had to let the clutch out to point of bite then downshift for each gear) much easier to do when still moving

Brian

 

[nolafishr]

When Slowing Down/Down Shifting always keep an Eye on your Speed and Tach/RPM'S, That should give you an idea of what Gear you should be in!

Upshift
15 Mph Second Gear
25 Mph Third Gear
35 Mph Fourth Gear
45 Mph Fifth Gear
55 Mph Sixth Gear

Downshift
50 MPH Fifth Gear
40 Mph Fourth Gear
30 Mph Third Gear
20 Mph Second Gear
10 Mph First Gear

 

[horizonchaser]

I downshift and let the clutch out easy (engine brake) all the way to second. If the light goes green and I'm still rolling, second gear is good to get going again. If I know I'm going to have to come to a complete stop, I then downshift to first while still rolling but keep the clutch disengaged and use the wheel brakes. I stay in first with the clutch disengaged until everything settles down at the intersection and then, if I know I'll be there for a bit, I'll shift into neutral and give my arms and hands a short break. WARNING - at this point you will lose serious cool points if you forget to shift back into first when the light turns green. You really look moronic revving the engine and trying to get your feet up on the boards on a bike that isn't moving!!

Yeah, and I've done that more than once! ;-(

 

[adam026]

I have always allowed my engine to help brake, and downshifted as long as I have ridden.
I agree with Sled dog, the track method is not strickly for the track.
Using the engine-as long as you are not maxing out your RPMS, should not damage it, and can help save your brakes also.
Letting out the clutch real slow isn't healthy for it, but dumping it can throw you around and damage the clutch.
Find that comfort zone and use it is my sugestion.
To downshift or not to downshift. It's all about preference in my eyes, either way works as long as it's done safely.
Ride long, play hard.......

 

[Jim B.]

I feel stupid asking but just what is chirping of the rear tire.

 

[STEVE07]

If your engine is revving too high when you downshift you will momentarily slow the tire speed beyond yours,hence "chirp the tire":s

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

I downshift and let the clutch out easy (engine brake) all the way to second. If the light goes green and I'm still rolling, second gear is good to get going again. If I know I'm going to have to come to a complete stop, I then downshift to first while still rolling but keep the clutch disengaged and use the wheel brakes. I stay in first with the clutch disengaged until everything settles down at the intersection and then, if I know I'll be there for a bit, I'll shift into neutral and give my arms and hands a short break. WARNING - at this point you will lose serious cool points if you forget to shift back into first when the light turns green. You really look moronic revving the engine and trying to get your feet up on the boards on a bike that isn't moving!!

1+ for Dr. D...good approach and the punch line was shall we say worth a least 2 cool points cause between you and me I don't think neither of us have done THAT!!

Sled Dog has this post pretty much covered...always a good idea to be in the right gear in case you have to pull away (back in the day, I think MSF Better Biking) had a rolling stop and go exercise you can do in an empty parking lot, where you practice downshifting, gently engine braking, almost to a complete stop with feet on the pegs, then accelerate and upshift back up at low speed and small throttle openings. It takes a good balance of throttle control, friction point clutch work, trail braking and smooth assertive shifting to make ensure the chassis is balanced and transitions "natural" and automatic. :33: It should be part of every rider "spring tuneup".

 

[gregski]

When Slowing Down/Down Shifting always keep an Eye on your Speed and Tach/RPM'S, That should give you an idea of what Gear you should be in!

Upshift
15 Mph Second Gear
25 Mph Third Gear
35 Mph Fourth Gear
45 Mph Fifth Gear
55 Mph Sixth Gear

Hmmm....I am about 5 to 7.5K higher on all my values. Is my Fatboy geared differently? My upshift numbers are more like:

20 mph 2nd Gear
30 mph 3rd Gear
40 mph 4th Gear
52-53 mph 5th Gear
63+ 6th Gear

 

[DDogg]

Hmmm....I am about 5 to 7.5K higher on all my values. Is my Fatboy geared differently? My upshift numbers are more like:

20 mph 2nd Gear
30 mph 3rd Gear
40 mph 4th Gear
52-53 mph 5th Gear
63+ 6th Gear

After doing a Stage one on my FatBob, I'm right with you on the shifting gregski. The 5 to 10 mph lower is per the manual. To each his own. But I find my V-Twin lugging when in 3rd doing 25. And lugging doing 35mph when in 4th. Stock, this was o.k. I'll run 5th up to 6o being going to 6th.

 

[nolafishr]

Those Shift Points are what is written in the Manual and gives you something to go by, I know everyone will usually run it up past those at times before shifting into the next gear, I do it Myself!