Cruise Control Will Not Set

[propflux01]

The tests I have been doing have been taken from the pins of connector 17b. It is disconnected from the module while taking readings.

From the schematic, the wires for SET and RESUME go from 17b, to Interconnect 156, then straight to RH control, 22b. Pins 11, and 12. I could see where a pending short to ground could be (if the switch wires were defective), but where would the 9V be coming from?

 

[Hoople]

It's coming from the switch itself. The switch has internal leakage. B+ goes into the switch on pin 1 (orange/white)

Internal wiper dust, moisture or whatever is causing leakage to pin B&C of 17.

I think you found your problem! Good job.

 

[propflux01]

Thank you so much for helping me on this! I guess the search is on for a new switch or switch assy. hopefully this will fix it. Since I have both radio and cruise control on the RHS control, seems this will be a challenge to find! I will definitely post back results if and when I find a new switch.

 

[Bodeen]

You may try some cleaner such as Deoxit or a contact cleaner and see if you can flush the switch out. Careful with plastic and paint and the type of cleaner used.

 

[Hoople]

Thank you so much for helping me on this!

Anytime, glad to help. Just hope the switch is cheaper than a module!

You may try some cleaner such as Deoxit or a contact cleaner and see if you can flush the switch out.

Yep,, Expensive but it's the best I have ever used. First flush with 5% then use a shot of the 100% to preserve. When only the best will do.

 

[propflux01]

Well, do not think any contact cleaner is going to work, as it appears, from what I can see so far, that the switch is a sealed type switch. I cannot find a place to get the cleaner into it.

Hoople: Just for curiosity's sake before I spend on a new switch, Could that 9V going through there be just enough to fool the module into thinking I'm trying to resume, yet not enough to light off the "C" on the dash continuously or effect the way it displays? Just kinds seems that if I have sufficient B+ on that like all the time that the "C" would be illuminated all the time.

 

[Hoople]

Good point. What you might try as supporting evidence is go to connector 17B and eject the "C" position terminal out of the connector socket. If that packard connector pin is hard to get out, you may be able to get it at connector 156A/156B (pin2),,, or go to socket 22A/22B and remove pin 11.

I don't have cruise on my Dyna so I really don't know how it operates, but going by my car, I don't need the resume switch to make the cruise work on the highway.

Just disconnect that C wire and see what happens. From what I can tell, that C wire remains at 0 volts until you use the resume button. At least that's how I read it.

 

[propflux01]

That's kinda my thinking as well. After scouring eBay and other places I came across a harness assy to replace mine with new switches and wires. It is aftermarket but appears to be well made. There is a whole lot of used left side switches out there though!!

 

[propflux01]

Ok, update:

I replaced both RHS and LHS switches and wiring on the handlebars. The stray voltage is gone now, however the unit still does not set or pass the resume lash test.

Currently the bike has a 70955-98B module on it. Does anyone know positively if a 70599-98A module would work in its place?

 

[propflux01]

For those interested, cruise is fixed. Ended up taking the circuit board out of the old unit and installing it in the new unit. Seems the motor drive on the old unit was inop. I think the stray voltage caused it to burn out trying to "resume" all the time.