There has been a lot of talk lately about the benefits of scavenging the crankcase when doing an oil change on your engine. There are good products out there that will help you do it but it can also be done by assembling a few small kit items that you can get locally. To start with, Lisle Tools, and probably others make the tooling to remove your oil line quick connect. Check this link for Lisle-- Lisle Corporation These can be purchased from your local Sears store also for around $10. Also says on the packaging that you can purchase the 3/8" tool (PN 37050) separately (replacement tool) from the complete set from Lisle.. You will also need a length of 3/8" clear tubing that you will put over your oil return line, and a small bucket, preferably with ounces marked on the outside so you can see how much oil you have collected. A typical scavenge type oil change might go something like this: Step 1: Run the engine for a bit to get it up to temperature Step 2: Block up the jiffy stand or use something to get your bike reasonably level. Step 3: Remove plug from bottom of drain tube under the bike. Drain dirty oil into container. Step 4: Install drain plug and replace o-ring if it is torn. If it is still in good condition, reuse. Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick. Step 6: Use the quick connect tooling and remove the oil return line from the oil tank. It is the one closest to the filler neck on the tank. If your bike has a small aluminum or chrome disc at the tank where the oil line goes in, just grab the disc with your fingers and pull it back. It is only held there by an o-ring to keep it from sliding down the oil line. Pull the line out a bit and move to side to allow you to slip the length of clear tubing over the line. Put the other end of the clear tubing in your scavenge oil bucket. Step 7: Start the engine and run for about 10 seconds, then shut engine off. This is to purge the oil supply line from the tank, to the pump, then to the filter. Step 8: Now is the time to remove and change the engine oil filter. Install whatever brand of oil filter you prefer on the engine at this time, hopefully an HD filter. Step 9: Top off the oil tank again. Step 10: Start the engine and monitor how much oil is going into the scavenge bucket. Notice how black it is at first. Around 20- 30 seconds or so, it will start to lighten in color as it goes through the tubing. You should have collected somewhere around 24-32 ounces of dirty oil in the bucket. Shut off the engine. Step 11: Remove the clear tubing from the oil line. Install the oil return line back into the oil tank. You will hear/feel a click as the line snaps back into the connector. Step 12: Top off the oil tank. That's all there is to it and now you have completely fresh oil in your engine, no more dirty oil in the oil galleries. NOTE: The return line fitting in the oil tank is at the top of the tank so there will not be any oil leakage from the tank with the line removed. The feed line is at the bottom.. NOTE: One more thing here and that is not to be tempted to remove the plug in the bottom of the engine sump (case) It has been tried by some and in a few cases they have cracked the engine case doing it. The plug is there from the manufacturing process for the case and is installed with red locktite. Installation pics for the scavenger system from rogue choppers... http://www.roguechopper.com/pdfs/TwinCamBinstructions.pdf Rogue Chopper:roducts::.. A total oil change on baggers is possible also but requires a different approach with a kit that has to be installed into the oil lines on the bike which is available here... Rogue Chopper::Welcome Click "products" after you see the video which is below the screen. Twin Cam B instructions.pdf - Rogue chopper
A couple stupid questions. Will this work on a twin cam a? Don't see a reason why not but just curious. Also the oil drain plug is located in front of the swingarm on the air filter side correct? I'm new to softails and didn't get a manual with mine. Also would you know the oil levels of everything on the bike engine oil, transmission, etc.. Thanks
The author confused me with the caution about removing the oil pan drain so I went to the manual just to verify this, but you are right. The oil drain isn't under the tank but is under the bike.
Engine oil, if you drain from the tube tward the front of the swingarm it'll take about 2 quarts. The tranny will hold 1 quart, and the primary will need about 3/4-7/8 quart. I'd reccomend a good synthetic 20/50 in the engine, synthetic 75/140 gear lube in the tranny, and a good chaincase lube in the primary. Hope this helps.
Worked great drained, put two quarts of oil in and did the scavenge process as described; the old oil came out about 30 ounces of old oil. Wow that's about 1/3 of the complete oil change process.
Thanks for the info. Real helpful. Just one quick question- I was always told never ever run any internal combustion engine without oil. As noted above, runing it for 10 second to purge the old oil- will that cause any harm to the engine? Many thanks.
Re read this step. You aren't running it without oil. Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.