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circuit breaker?

Check the positive battery cable for bare spots and the end where it connects to the starter terminal. Sounds like you have a dead short at the starter.
 
I have a 2001 classic no additional electrical devises, put the bigger breaker in and experienced same failures. The breaker fails because of heat, motor gets overly hot the breaker fails. Shop tests are done with a hair dryer to pop the breaker, to see if it resets itself. Some problems could be corroded starter post, but mostly heat. Get rid of the breaker, your told to increase the amperage to 50 amps from 30 amps, does this make sense. Harley is skirting the issue. I manufactured a wire 10 gauge with a thirty amp fuse link soldered in then shrink wrapped the connections. I live in Arizona, end of problem and my electrical components are protected with the right amperage.
 
I just went thru that with my 83' FLTC...turn's out that the old owner had installed an "Inline Fuse" (for what reason, I don't know...) and it had blown causing the Main Circuit Breaker to blow...so I cut the Inline Fuse out, soldered the Wire together & shrink tubed it & no more problem!
 
HACKSKULL said:
I just went thru that with my 83' FLTC...turn's out that the old owner had installed an "Inline Fuse" (for what reason, I don't know...) and it had blown causing the Main Circuit Breaker to blow...so I cut the Inline Fuse out, soldered the Wire together & shrink tubed it & no more problem!
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Hopefully the circuit breaker is still in place and operable. You need some sort of circuit protection. In-line fuses are installed in place of the circuit breakers because the circuit breakers were known to heat up and open, killing the bike. If you now have no circuit protection on the main positive side of the system, you are asking for trouble IMO. Fuses do not blow for no reason.......
 
Circuit Breaker | 381-330 | JP Cycles

Have a look here, this is what your bike calls for, I would not consider a bike with out a main breaker, IMO that is a fire waiting to happen
If the fuse was wired in past the main breaker I would for sure change the main and check the hot wire back to the battery for signs of rubbing, also take a good look at the cable that runs to the starter, make sure you have clearance between the cable and the exhaust pipe, had an ugly experience coming home from Sturgis with an Evo bagger with this cable
 
That is the Circuit Breaker I bought and installed and the one I replaced was Rusted...the Inline Fuse was so old it was Rusted out & that blew & it caused my Main Breaker to blow...once I got rid of the Inline, everything run's Great!
Well my Manual does NOT show an Inline Fuse...but I think I will install one just in case! "Couldn't Hurt!":13:
 
A circuit breaker OR a fuse is fine. So long as you have one or the other for a protected circuit. Your original post wasnt clear if you had removed both or not.
 
Same thing happened to me. Turned out to be the ground strap from the battery to the frame. Check it, clean it, clean the terminals, then put it back on. Even with a corroded ground strap you will still see voltage, voltage everywhere, you just won't have the amperage needed to operate even a dash light. So you're back on line, ignition on, lights showing on dash, you hit the starter button, it barely cranks and your dash lights go out again making you think you've popped a breaker. Sometimes the lights go back on, sometimes they don't until after you recheck your battery then suddenly they do and then the same thing happens... hit the switch, lights go out, etc....it's the ground strap.
 
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