cams?

[Tramp60]

Hey All!
I have a 2007 electra glide and am getting ready to do the cams, lifters, chains, tensioners, and adjustable push rods. I am looking to get more torque out of it as the wife and I like to load up for the long haul and need more roll on power. Any suggestions as to the right cams for this application? The shop I am going through has suggested .525 but I am getting mixed signals on that being too large.

 

[kdaddy]

I suggest Andrews 21 or 26. I have 21's and love them.

 

[76_shovel]

Look into S&S 510G.
Good cam for heavy bike with 2 riders.

low to midrange torque, bolt in ( no mods required )

Hey All!
I have a 2007 electra glide and am getting ready to do the cams, lifters, chains, tensioners, and adjustable push rods..

Just curious, didnt notice 2007 right off.
you already have good cam door, and hydraulic tensioners and oil pump.

why do you think you need to change them ?

 

[TQuentin1]

I suggest Andrews 21 or 26. I have 21's and love them.

I also did the AP 21 grind on my '03 UC when I did the roller chain conversion. But as noted above, you already have that configuration. You don't need to change that for the sake of change unless the shoes on the hydraulic tensioners are worn out (shouldn't be).

Adjustable pushrods, lifters, and definitely changing out the INA inner bearings for Torringtons (Timken). As said above, the hydraulic lifter shoes if required.

Check out the pictorial I did when I did the upgrade on my UC here:

TQ's Engine Build

Harley Davidson Forums

Take pix!!

Cheers,

TQ

 

[Breeze3at]

The Andrews 48H was specifically designed for the 96" touring bikes. They are often recommended by top builders. Also there's a difference between adjustable push rods and quick install push rods. Quick installs do not require rocker box removal. Many adjustables do.

 

[Bodeen]

The Andrews 48H was specifically designed for the 96" touring bikes. They are often recommended by top builders. Also there's a difference between adjustable push rods and quick install push rods. Quick installs do not require rocker box removal. Many adjustables do.

+1 and as others have stated there is no need to change out the plate, pump, and tensioners....

 

[dolt]

First, I assume that you have already paid the Harley "tax" and upgraded to Stage I? If not that should be the first step.

Tensioners
Don't know how many miles on the motor but it certainly wouldn't hurt to check the tensioners for wear while installing cams. If 25K miles or more, I would replace them; CYCO now makes a tensioner for the hydraulic cam plates and Zippers offers a dual piston replacement tensioner as well.

Cam Plate
Personally, I have never liked the later OEM cam plates because the outer cam journals ride in the parent material of the plate. If installing more aggressive cams, I would opt for the 25282-11 billet plate and upgraded oil pump; your chains, tensioners and other associated hardware will retrofit.

Cams
Breeze3at has it right on the cam choice; the Andrews 48 is the best choice for a cam only upgrade in a stock or Stage I 96" motor.

You did not mention upgrading the inner cam bearings but that should be part of the upgrade as well; 24018-10 is the PN.

Lifters
The '07 models came with the "B" lifter which was much better than the later "C" lifter introduced in the '10 models. So, I would be inclined to keep them but if you have near or more than 35K miles on the motor you should replace them but not with HD lifters. Insist on an aftermarket lifter like S&S Standard lifters or even the premium if budget allows.

Pushrods
The SE Premium Tapered are as good as any and reasonably priced; PN is 18404-08 and the kit includes everything you need; tubes, O-rings, clips and pushrods.

Fuel Management
You did not mention fuel management which will be required with a cam upgrade. The TTS Mastertune or Dynojet Power Vision are the two state of the art system currently available; both will require a dyno tune to optimize the performance. Don't rely on maps or flashes. If the work is being done at a dealership, they will be pushing the Screaming Eagle Pro Super Tuner or SEPST; a good system as well as long as you can find someone to tune with it. Dealers that have dynos do not have a good history of providing a proper tune. They often times download a map to get close and tweak the map a bit and call it good. A proper dyno tune will take 3-4 hours and most dealers will not invest that much time in a tune.

I think that about covers it; good luck.:coffee

 

[Tramp60]

We're at 50,000+ miles and I'm going to be in there. I'm replacing the stock piston to a twin piston on the tensioner.

 

[Tramp60]

I do have the stage 1 upgrade. we are going to the zipper dual piston tensioner. I'm also running cobra true duels with screaming eagle slip on mufflers. I also have a 73 shovel which I'm use doing all my own work. Having someone else work on my ride makes me uneasy. The shop I'm going through to do the work recommended the zipper 525 cams. I thought that might be a little extreme so I thought I'd ask around. Thanks for all the info I knew I could count on ya'll.
Tramp

 

[Breeze3at]

The Zippers (Red Shift) 525's actually have less lift .475/.525 than the Andrews 48's .548/.548 which are considered "bolt in's" for your '07 engine. Lift is only one aspect of a good cam.