dolt
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="Zelda The Welder, post: 607442, mem]Good Morning doIt, I used the S&S Cycle 509G Standard Gear Drive Cam Chest Kit .[/QUOTE]
The 509 was a good cam choice. Assuming the OEM head gasket was used , corrected compression as well as CCP (cold cranking pressure) which means more torque which means more horsepower. A .030" head gasket would have added a bit to that bump but you should be feeling a bit more low end and mid range power.
You have not mentioned whether the bike is carbureted or fuel injected. Either way, some tuning is required to get the most out of the cam upgrade. If carbureted, main jet should go up a step or two and the needle probably raised a bit using some SS washers available on the internet for that purpose. If the idle adjustment screw has never been accessed, the metal cap that conceals that screw should be removed for access so the idle adjustment can be checked. Don't know if you are noticing any stumbling, carb farts, poor mileage, etc. but installing a performance cam normally requires a bit of tuning.
If fuel injected, when ever cash is available, you should consider a dyno tune; you will be surprised at the difference a proper tune will make when fuel and ignition are spot on. Of course, you will need a fuel management system for the tune. Check around your area for a shop/tuner that uses the Power Vision tuner. Many of those tuners will charge a "license" fee so the customer does not have to purchase the system. The license and tune runs about $400-$500 in south Texas. I know, not cheap but truly you will be surprised at the difference a proper tune will make and you will have the benefit of knowing that fuel and timing are properly set and cannot do any damage from being to rich/lean or to advanced/retarded (oops! I don't think I am supposed to use that word!
)
Anyway, just a friendly suggestion to optimize the benefit of your work..
The 509 was a good cam choice. Assuming the OEM head gasket was used , corrected compression as well as CCP (cold cranking pressure) which means more torque which means more horsepower. A .030" head gasket would have added a bit to that bump but you should be feeling a bit more low end and mid range power.
You have not mentioned whether the bike is carbureted or fuel injected. Either way, some tuning is required to get the most out of the cam upgrade. If carbureted, main jet should go up a step or two and the needle probably raised a bit using some SS washers available on the internet for that purpose. If the idle adjustment screw has never been accessed, the metal cap that conceals that screw should be removed for access so the idle adjustment can be checked. Don't know if you are noticing any stumbling, carb farts, poor mileage, etc. but installing a performance cam normally requires a bit of tuning.
If fuel injected, when ever cash is available, you should consider a dyno tune; you will be surprised at the difference a proper tune will make when fuel and ignition are spot on. Of course, you will need a fuel management system for the tune. Check around your area for a shop/tuner that uses the Power Vision tuner. Many of those tuners will charge a "license" fee so the customer does not have to purchase the system. The license and tune runs about $400-$500 in south Texas. I know, not cheap but truly you will be surprised at the difference a proper tune will make and you will have the benefit of knowing that fuel and timing are properly set and cannot do any damage from being to rich/lean or to advanced/retarded (oops! I don't think I am supposed to use that word!
)Anyway, just a friendly suggestion to optimize the benefit of your work.
.