Broke on vacation please help fast!!

[glenalt]

Hoop, Its good to know you are around in case I get into trouble. You are the best. Keep it up. Just a word of encouragement.

 

[Hoople]

Hoop, Its good to know you are around in case I get into trouble.

Thanks for the kind words. I hope you feel the same way when you take my advice and you see nothing but SPARKS!. Believe me, it Can & Has happened.

 

[glider]

Hoop, Its good to know you are around in case I get into trouble. You are the best. Keep it up. Just a word of encouragement.

I have to second this too. It's GREAT to have someone that can diagnose the problem and give an answer that is the correct one.

It frees up a lot of my time so I can do other things.

Good job Hoop! :s

 

[Jonas]

Dave, the more I look at this schematic, that wiring on that kill switch has to be a type-o. It makes no sense the way it is shown.
This would be my plan if I was where you are.

Open up the cover switch on the bars and test the Kill switch to see if it is actually Normally closed.
If YES, then your on the road to an easy fix.

You should have 4 fuses. One of the fuses should have a Red/Black along with a Solid Black wire going to it. Do you see that fuse?

You should also have a Black /White wire that goes to the ignition coil. Do you see that wire?

I don't think the "kill switch" is the problem. The bike will crank with the handle bars straight. Seems this would eliminate the kill switch.

 

[Hoople]

You have to zoom in on them but take a look at these prints. To me it appears the kill switch would have to be normally closed in order for the ignition to get power. It looks like HD decided to run "supervised lines" to the kill switch for added safety. (?)

Locate the kill button and work backward. B+ is feeding the switch and then it goes nowhere.

The big give away to me was seeing power being applied to the diagnostic plug only when the kill switch was pushed.. That made no sense to me.

 

[glider]

I don't think the "kill switch" is the problem. The bike will crank with the handle bars straight. Seems this would eliminate the kill switch.

Not to jump in here in the middle but what do you mean by this?

" The bike will crank with the handle bars straight."

Does it NOT crank if they are turned indicating a fault in the main harness?

 

[Hoople]

Not to jump in here in the middle

By all means JUMP IN. I love when we mix it up.

 

[Jonas]

Hoople I think the switch is normally closed. Even though the schematic looks like it is NO.

This is what I think happens, power from the ignition switch goes to the Emergency stop switch. Once the Emergency stop switch is closed. Power goes to the Starter Switch and to ignition. That is what makes me think the E switch is okay.

I am looking at a diffrent schematic, but circuit seems the same. I need to figure how to blow yours up.

I admire you trouble shooting techniques. I think you will figure it out.

I would be suspect of the connector for the handle bar circuit.

 

[Jonas]

Not to jump in here in the middle but what do you mean by this?

" The bike will crank with the handle bars straight."

Does it NOT crank if they are turned indicating a fault in the main harness?

OP Post

Just straighten handle bars

Oh and the light on the module flashes when engine is cranked but no fire either cylinder



I think this eliminates the kill switch. I think it will crank and run in the turned position. Weird. It almost has to be the continuity somewhere between the Emergency Stop Switch and the ignition.

 

[glider]

I am looking at a diffrent schematic, but circuit seems the same. I need to figure how to blow yours up.

I admire you trouble shooting techniques. I think you will figure it out.

I would be suspect of the connector for the handle bar circuit.

Try opening it in IE or even Firefox. There's provisions to enlarge there. Try "cntrl+++" it will enlarge the pic.