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Brake Pad Question

If new pads do not have the line (debris/water groove) An old racers trick was to use a hack saw and make one to within 1/16" of the backing plate so you had a reference groove to check the wear. So before you do your brake pad replacement, make sure you have all the materials you need, proper DOT brake fluid, high temp grease for the pins and contact areas, sandpaper, Brakleen (non-chlorinated), 99% Alcohol etc.

Prep area and give plenty of time in case you need additional parts, inspect your new parts, the last set of EBC pads I got for one of my sport bikes, got 1 set with groove and 1 set without, yet both had the same part number. Needless to say, I returned the grooveless one so I had a matching set for my Katana dual disk 4 pot calipers.

glider said:
Not all manufacturers have the wear lines in the pads. EBC is one of them that do have them.

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Not to add to the confusion, or cause more, but here is what I suggest you do.
You are going to replace the pads soon anyway, So go and get a new set.
Take the new set, and measure the thickness of the brake pad on the backing plate.
That will give you a baseline to compare the wear on your present pads.

With the new Brenbo Brakes, You will be surprised at how thin the pad is when it is new.
Compared to the old style pads, they look half worn out before they are ever installed!

Now, consider how much pad you have used for the miles logged on your old pads. That should be an indidator of how much life is left.
 
gs34 said:
Not to add to the confusion, or cause more, but here is what I suggest you do.
You are going to replace the pads soon anyway, So go and get a new set.
Take the new set, and measure the thickness of the brake pad on the backing plate.
That will give you a baseline to compare the wear on your present pads.

With the new Brenbo Brakes, You will be surprised at how thin the pad is when it is new.
Compared to the old style pads, they look half worn out before they are ever installed!

Now, consider how much pad you have used for the miles logged on your old pads. That should be an indidator of how much life is left.
Click to expand...

Great suggestion - very logical - I wish I could get my grey matter to operate like that!
 
Just some food for thought, the "wear lines" also help reduce brake pad squeak...supposedly. I believe the brake pad manufacturer would tell you to go by the HD spec for wear and not by the center line or wear line to cover their tails. Example - if you have a 4 piston caliper and 1 piston freezes, you're going to have uneven wear on the brake pad that might wear out one edge of the pad but not totally consume the "wear line."
 
gs34 said:
Not to add to the confusion, or cause more, but here is what I suggest you do.
You are going to replace the pads soon anyway, So go and get a new set.
Take the new set, and measure the thickness of the brake pad on the backing plate.
That will give you a baseline to compare the wear on your present pads.

With the new Brenbo Brakes, You will be surprised at how thin the pad is when it is new.
Compared to the old style pads, they look half worn out before they are ever installed!

Now, consider how much pad you have used for the miles logged on your old pads. That should be an indidator of how much life is left.
Click to expand...
you beat me to it :p I always keep a spare set of pads in the tool box for both wheels. It gives you a "visual" of what the new ones look like to compare the old ones to. Also when it's time to change them all you have to do is go to the tool box instead of shopping.
 
When i replaced my rr pads on my FLHRS i din't see no line, so it might be on certain models. I did notice yesterday after a 380 mile ride, that i developed the same moaning sound for why i changed the rr bads. Does anyone have any input on how to get rid of it.
 
That "moaning" sound is resonance of the caliper/pad assembly caused by excessive drag between the disc rotor and pads...symptom of "sticking" caliper assembly. In the tab near the top of the page self help section Glider provided a great tip on EZ caliper service, but do not soak your new pads in Brakleen when flushing them, I usually use clear water over rags and compressed air after using it to clean the works out. Don't forget to use the shoelace method to "strop" the exposed pistons clean before pushing them back into the bores, you do not want to drive all that debris into the micro-gap...:s BTW, they do make "Anti-noise" paste/sealer for the pad backs, a light coat does help reduce noise on new pads.
 
It doesnt matter how it runs its got to stop if u r in doubt change them better to error on the safe side and depending on your riding habits the pads could be worn out Be safe
 
First Post so forgive me if it shows up in the wrong place. Does anyone know why some of the sellers of brake pads say that the single part number can be used either on the front or rear caliper ? I know that Harley lists two distinct part numbers, one for the front and one for the rear.
 
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