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Bike tracks to the left.

After you did the rear wheel/tire alignment, where you able to do a road test to see if it reduced or eliminated the tracking problem?
After I made the slight adjustment on the rear tire the road test was the same, bike still goes to the left but goes straight if I shift my weight to the right a little.
Question... Is this bike bone stock.
Although I can’t tell if the bike has ever been wrecked, I have given it a very close inspection. I have no doubt its all original. But without a manual I can’t say for sure, I don’t want to spring for a manual ($60) because I may sale the bike this summer.
Then get an inclinometer
I don’t know how to use the inclinometer or what it is but would appreciate the web link to learn how to use it.
The cure was to very carefully set the rear wheel alignment to the best possible and to loosen all the bolts on the forks and front axle and re-align the front.
I would like very much if someone on HDtalking would give me the schematics for the front suspension.

Thanks MD
 
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With regard to the front suspension, I would not like to give an in depth explanation, but it is in the manual and it is straightforward. With regard to the rear, just be aware if using the 1/8th holes in the swingarm, and measuring to the axle washers, the captive washer on the axle head is a slightly different size to the loose washer under the nut, or at least it is on my bike.
 
After I made the slight adjustment on the rear tire the road test was the same, bike still goes to the left but goes straight if I shift my weight to the right a little.
..........
I don’t want to spring for a manual ($60) because I may sale the bike this summer.
.......
I don’t know how to use the inclinometer or what it is but would appreciate the web link to learn how to use it.
.......
1. When you talk about weight shift it makes me think you might have your top engine stabilizer out of alignment since this would tilt the rear tire and cause such symptoms. Doing the inclinometer is not difficult. When I get in tonight I will try to elaborate or anyone can jump in and give that to you. Just make sure you read the inclinometer from the same direction (see above post on this)

2. On the manual look around online you can buy the manual digital for $10 to $20. I will try to find a current link tonight. I have both and they are identical.

... .... With regard to the rear, just be aware if using the 1/8th holes in the swingarm, and measuring to the axle washers, the captive washer on the axle head is a slightly different size to the loose washer under the nut, or at least it is on my bike.

This is something to pay attention to depending on model. On my 07 bob there is no washer but a flange nut. I first set the alignment dead on to the center of the axle hole. I then checked it to the edge of the nut flange. There was no difference on mine. See my profile on how I set my rear alignment, it works much better than bending a rod like the manual says.
 
Well I had to work late last night and gone again this morning. But one way to see if your top alignment is out bad is park your bike on a smooth surface with about 3 feet rolling distance clear in front.

Spread some white talcum powder on the floor in front of the rear tire and forward at least 2 feet. Don't let it get too thick, is so spread it out thin with a straight edge of something. The reason the floor needs to be smooth is otherwise the powder will disappear in the grooves if not smooth. If your concrete is broom finish, get a piece of smooth carboard to put down.

Then mount your bike, holding it as straight up as possible, and roll it forward through the talcum powder. Then stop immediately and dismount.

Get behind the bike and look at the pattern of powder on the rear tire. If it's more to one side then your top alignment is out and the tire (trans and engine) is tilted.
 
Well I had to work late last night and gone again this morning. But one way to see if your top alignment is out bad is park your bike on a smooth surface with about 3 feet rolling distance clear in front.

Spread some white talcum powder on the floor in front of the rear tire and forward at least 2 feet. Don't let it get too thick, is so spread it out thin with a straight edge of something. The reason the floor needs to be smooth is otherwise the powder will disappear in the grooves if not smooth. If your concrete is broom finish, get a piece of smooth carboard to put down.

Then mount your bike, holding it as straight up as possible, and roll it forward through the talcum powder. Then stop immediately and dismount.

Get behind the bike and look at the pattern of powder on the rear tire. If it's more to one side then your top alignment is out and the tire (trans and engine) is tilted.

Wow That is quick easy and visual. Thanks
 
Re: Manual links

Here are places to buy the 2007 H.D. Dyna Service Manual

here is a download link, for $6
INSTANT DOWNLOAD: Harley Davidson 2007 DYNA Service Manual - Download Technical

Here is one where they ship you the CD for $14
2007 Harley DYNA Service + Diagnostics Manual on CD - eBay (item 170593608931 end time Feb-20-11 08:49:15 PST)

And here is another one for $12
2007 Harley Davidson Dyna FXD Service Manual - eBay (item 160534999120 end time Feb-18-11 20:20:46 PST)

Back when I got mine it was a CD, but I can't
find the link where I bought mine for $10.
 
the results in a day or two.

I just got done with the powder on the floor test. Not sure about the results. Please look at the pictures below and help me figure it out. Thanks MD…..
 

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MD, I think your spinning your wheels and something had to go wrong when you checked the alignment using the light tubes. I have a few questions regarding the steps you took.

1) How did you support the bike in an upright near vertical position while you checked the alignment.
You can not perform the check while the bike is on the jiffy stand or while using a Condor front wheel chock.

2) Look at the attachment drawing. A Rear wheel and front wheel view looking down. With the light tubes just touching each side of the rear wheel, you should of had 4 front wheel readings. Before you can conclude the rear wheel is in alignment or out of alignment, you must turn the front bars to make A=A prime and B= B prime. Did you do this? For the time being A does not need to equal B. (It does in the end, but not right now) But A must equal A Prime and B must equal B prime.

If you could not make that happen, it means the rear wheel is still out of alignment.
Ultimately, if all 4 distances are equal (A=A'=B=B') it means that both the front wheel is tracking over the rear wheel centerline & wheel offset (axle spacers) is correct.
 

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I just got done with the powder on the floor test. Not sure about the results. Please look at the pictures below and help me figure it out. Thanks MD…..

The rear tire does not look bad at all. It could be a tad out still but there is no evidence of it looking at the tire.

Given the history of your bike I think it would be prudent to slide your tank back far enough to put an inclinometer on the side of the frame backbone and compare it to the reading on the front and rear brake disks.
You can pick up (or order online if you don't have one local) one of these at Harbor Freight for about $5.
Dial Gauge Angle Finder

This would help you see if the frame has any twist to it. As for the frame being bent you would need to put a straight edge on it which might require fully removing the tank. These are things you might want to consider.
The inclinometer will tell you alot. But again your rear tire does not look out as far as tilt. But... if you want to keep this bike you need to get to know it well and you can only do that by taking some things apart and inspecting them.

And yes to what Hoop is saying. Get both As to match then read the Bs, if the Bs don't match (when the As already do) the the alignment is out.
 
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