Bike dying, lean, Sturgis trip slipping away...

[Hoople]

Is there a reference anywhere for what pins numbers are what on the ECM?

First things first, you need to at least get a service manual. That will have the schematics your looking for. It does not go into electrical diagnostics but it should be enough to at least get you started.

I only mentioned the pin configuration/ size of pins just in case you or your buddies jump on the problem. All too often people reach for paper clips, pins, nails, drill bits or whatever they can find to insert into a connector. Just giving you a heads-up to that big mistake.

Review what you have to do & the tools needed to do the job. This job may take a little more skill than most. It can be tedious to repair something like this over the internet.

You absolutely have good documentation & descriptions of the problems. Very good work on your part. It would help a local Indy a bunch in sorting things out. You will have to find an Indy that works heavily on late model EFI and understands the in's & out's of engine management.

I am not trying to scare you off. But you will invest a bunch of time & money into a problem like this, the first time out.
Following problems become cheaper.

 

[Breeze3at]

Never seen or heard of a Fluke meter before. I have a craftsman multi-meter from Sears. I could go get a Fluke if they aren't expensive. I'll do some research on the Fluke meters now. .

Not positive, but I think Hoople uses the term "Fluke meter", like "kleenex, or xerox". I think any brand multimeters will work. Fluke is a high quality brand meter.

 

[kansaskid72]

Thanks...I think an Indy may be in order. But, I do have a service manual so I can try a few things first. Have never cracked open the electric diagram section so I'll take a look.

I've heard of an ECM breakout box, but I was hoping there would be a picture of an ECM plug along with numbering on each pin and what it does, kind of thing. If not, I'll look into the service manual.

Cleared all codes on the ECM, then fired her up and did a full bike wire wiggle test...every wire or bundle I could get to and found nothing would interrupt the engine idle, even adding some throttle while checking. Then I checked codes. Had a P0107 and P0122. What do you make of those? Since the P0107 is the other code on the MAP sensor, maybe it's going bad? The P0122 is TPS so maybe that sensor or wires? Either way, they both popped up without an engine light, and had to happen during this wiggle test.

Then I hooked up the TMAX and ran in Open Loop since I still have the stock O2's in. I figured since it was very sensitive and gave me the most problems, I'd do a wiggle test all over with that in. No engine codes and no hiccups. Ran fine after warming up and couldn't get it to die on my angled driveway like before. I also watched the vitals on my laptop in TMAX "monitor" mode to see any fluctuations. TPS readings for throttle position were right on all the way to WOT and back. No skips, funky numbers, nothing.

Hooked back up the stock ECM and another full bike wiggle test....no codes this time (I cleared the ones from the first test). No stumble bouncing up and down or at angles. No killing engine when I hit the rear brake. Hmmmm...must have temp rectified something. I did unplug the TPS, MAP, and IAC during my first test. Maybe they are now seated properly?

 

[kansaskid72]

60 mile ride yesterday...not a hiccup or issue at all. No codes. Maybe I'll ride it until I get a code or problem again. Just can't afford more 3rd party troubleshooting right now. It was so great to finally ride without cringing over every bump or imperfection in the road! Will probably hook up the TMAX next to see how it rides then.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Not positive, but I think Hoople uses the term "Fluke meter", like "kleenex, or xerox". I think any brand multimeters will work. Fluke is a high quality brand meter.

Fluke is top notch IMO and we now sell them at Sears, I have one and use it most every day tho a cheap one will be fine for most. Hoople is finite and demands the best and I stand behind his opinions and I learn from him every time I read his posts JMHO Hi Breeze:s

 

[eleft36]

It is a highly recommended practice to use dielectric grease on all connect pins and sockets.
Pull them all apart, check and clean the pins with a Q tip and electronic cleaner and spray the sockets, and push the dielectric grease into the sockets and swab it on the pins. Also lightly coat the rubber seals.
Get the ones in the electrical caddy behind the voltage regulator also.

Don't trust any connector as being OK even the fuse and relay spades!

http://ssdl1.cachefly.net/ThunderMaxManuals/ThunderMaxTBW/TBWConductivity_11302010.pdf#view

Al

:USA
:CONNECTICUT

 

[Hoople]

I've heard of an ECM breakout box, but I was hoping there would be a picture of an ECM plug along with numbering on each pin and what it does, kind of thing.

Pin identification is easy. If you look at the connector itself, it has two rows of 18 pins. Molded into the plastic housing there are the numbers 1, 18, 19 & 36. The beginning and ending of each row is marked. The numbers are hard to see because they are the same color as the body of the connector, but they are there. The bikes with minimal electrical demands (Sporty. Dyna, Softail etc) have a 36 pin (2 rows of 18) ECM connector. The Baggers with TBW have 74 (76?) pin connectors.

The service manual tells you what each pin is responsible for. Then just go over to the ECM connector, and in this case you will be dealing with the wiring harness side which are the female sockets. If your serious about electrical troubleshooting I would recommend making a few meter test probes just for this type of testing. Go to a Hobby shop and purchase some solid round brass piano wire in .040" thickness. After you cut the piano wire with side cutters, be sure to clean up and smooth the leading edges that will be inserted into the ECM harness connector. Don't make matters worse. The last thing you want to do is damage or scrape off the gold flashing on the inside of the terminal sockets. The pins and sockets used on the late model Delphi systems are very precise and designed with exacting standards. Inserting a "squeezed out" blunt test probe pin will permanently damage the electrical socket.

Take your time and make up a few probes and save them for the next time. The Moco uses several style, types and brands of connectors on the same bike, so the above only applies to the late model Packard 100W ECM connectors. If your interested, you can view the complete makeup of these ECM connectors here.=>
http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochures/DCS_GlobalCatalog.pdf

It's a thick catalog (19 meg) but Pages 186-190 of the Catalog has some info about the 36 pin connectors used on HD late model ECMs. This info helps if you also want to build your own ECM break-out box.

Below attachment shows what I have been using for probes with good results and without damage. Always use NyoGel 760 to prevent gold scraping.