Barnett Clutch Issue?

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by jwquinn, Feb 27, 2016.

  1. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

    Hi Everyone. So I've set up my '12 Heritage to Stage 2, as follows:
    SE Air Intake
    Rush Slash Cut Slip-Ons
    S&S 583 Cams w/ heavy duty lifters and adj pushrods
    Power Commander Vision (I love this thing)
    Dynoed & Tuned by Trask performance here in Phoenix.

    The bike runs great but it seemed like the stock clutch was slipping, so I replaced the plates with the Barnett 'extra plate' kit, and a new Barnett performance spring kit. I'm running ATF in the primary case.
    After 300 miles or so, I've noticed two things. One, finding neutral is a pain, and two, the clutch doesn't complete disengage when activated. I've adjusted the cable to specs (as per the manual) and the done the same with the clutch itself. I'm not sure how to deal with the drag. It feels minor, because when I'm stopped, but in first gear with the clutch pulled in, I can keep the bike from moving just with my feet on the ground. But the bike wants to move.
    Has anyone dealt with anything like this? As always, any advice is very much appreciated. Thanks!!
  2. STEVE07

    STEVE07 Well-Known Member Staff Member Super Moderators

    I would flush the ATF out of the primary and just put 20-50 dino oil in it. I use synthetics everywhere else but the primary. There I use the cheapest oil I can with no friction modifiers and let the clutch do what it was designed to do.
  3. Jeff Klarich

    Jeff Klarich Well-Known Member Contributor

    +1 on flushing out the ATF, I've always had good luck using Formula + in the primary. JMHO
  4. dbmg

    dbmg Guest

    Have you referred to installation guide and made sure all components were install properly and clutch adjusted correctly?
  5. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

    I've followed the install guide and everything went in just fine. I like the idea of dumping the atf and going with a 20-50 non-synthetic. In the install instructions that came with the clutch pack, Barnett noted that several folks had reported problems using Formula +. Thanks for the help I'll let you know how it works out
  6. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

    Make sure you check that clutch adjustment. Sometime when all the new stuff settles and seats the adjustment can be out.
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Guest

    Barnett recommends ATF in the primary, you do not have enough free travel in your clutch, it is not fully disengaging re check your adjustment cold, check your cable is it stretched?
  8. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    If the cable is good and the clutch is correctly set a lighter weight oil may be the answer as a thicker oil may not be thrown clear of the clutch plates and allow them to slip between each other

  9. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

    Thanks all for the insight. I prefer to do the work myself rather than taking it to the dealer. Not that I mind the dealer making a buck mind you, just not 120 bucks an hour for a job that should take 30 min and is pretty straight forward.

    I'm not sure the cable is an issue as I still have some adjustment left in it, but it COULD be the problem. It's the original cable and now has the added spring strength. I'll see what I can do as far as adjustment goes, both clutch and cable.

    I'm a little concerned about the atf in hot weather. Any other thoughts on that?
  10. Jeff Klarich

    Jeff Klarich Well-Known Member Contributor

    Barnett my recommend ATF but I guess i'm a little old fashioned and think ATF is good in automatic trannys but not so much in a clutch setup. JMHO.
    Take a look in the primary oil poll and see what others are using and why.