Automatic Chain Tensioner Adjustment
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Jack Klarich
Guest
:s Nowhere, Mr Data is a bot machine working in the self help section:s
Thomas_2007FLSTC
New Member
I have a couple of comments regarding this method for primary chain adjustment. There is a spring that exerts pressure on the wedge at all times. Why would it be necessary to use some scheme of adding inertia to it? OK, let's assume the spring is weak or something.
After accelerating to around 30 mph, it seems to me that it would be better to keep the throttle open a little while braking. Isn't the chain tightest on the bottom and loosest on the top when the engine is being driven by the rear wheel? We want the opposite here, loose on the bottom and tight on the top, as in acceleration. And why use the rear brake only? If the wedge is being driven forward by inertia using both brakes will assure a harder stop, "throwing" the wedge forward. Braking is a function of the brake caliper connecting the brake disk to the frame. The drive system is unaffected by how the bike is being stopped, front or rear brakes. Still, while there is forward motion and the clutch is engaged, the primary chain will be loose on the top and tight on the bottom.
I accelerated to about 30 mph as recommended in the original post but I kept enough throttle to ensure the bottom of the chain was loose. I then braked hard with both brakes. Worked just fine.
After accelerating to around 30 mph, it seems to me that it would be better to keep the throttle open a little while braking. Isn't the chain tightest on the bottom and loosest on the top when the engine is being driven by the rear wheel? We want the opposite here, loose on the bottom and tight on the top, as in acceleration. And why use the rear brake only? If the wedge is being driven forward by inertia using both brakes will assure a harder stop, "throwing" the wedge forward. Braking is a function of the brake caliper connecting the brake disk to the frame. The drive system is unaffected by how the bike is being stopped, front or rear brakes. Still, while there is forward motion and the clutch is engaged, the primary chain will be loose on the top and tight on the bottom.
I accelerated to about 30 mph as recommended in the original post but I kept enough throttle to ensure the bottom of the chain was loose. I then braked hard with both brakes. Worked just fine.
tourbox
Senior Member
No, yours has a manual adjustment through the Primary Inspection hole. That's the small cover near your shifter. Automatic adjuster came out in 2007
tourbox
MSGLucas
New Member
I seem to be haveing this same issue on my 2008 deluxe. I tried the 30 to 0 trick and doesnt seem to have worked. could the clutch being out of adjustment cause this same noise from or near the primary? I changed cables a few months back but made all adjustment at the cable and didnt do any adjustment behind the derby cover. Just changed all the fluids and everything smelled fine just a loud and constant noise coming from that area that is driving me up a wall. thoughts?
Taildraggerdave
Active Member
I haven't done this trick since back in '09, maybe '10...
I should probably try it again.
Take care,
Dave
I should probably try it again.
Take care,
Dave
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Yes it will, if the chain is not tight enough it should ratchet up
Ive got a 02 FXD with a lil over 45k on it and I just recently started hearing a tic tic tic at lower speeds and a loud rattling sound at higher. I kinda figure its the cam chain tensioners but after reading this thread I figure I aught to dig into the primary. Can anyone explain how to tension it manually?