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82 FXS Clutch setup problems.

Do you still have the old clutch pack? If so take a measurement of the fiber plate hole diameter and compare that to the new fiber plate hole. Remember that when you are sliding the new filter plates in and checking them for not binding that there is not centrifugal side load on them as opposed to when the bike is running and any slight binding can be amplified when bike is running. Also when you have the clutch pack out get s small straight edge ruler and double check the studs to ensure that they are true and not tweaked as A slight offset with centrifugal load can cause the fiber plates to not properly release causing the jerk and stall of the bike as the engagement needs to be gradual and smooth When you are releasing the clutch lever in gear
 
Pulled plates and pads again. Measured the holes and they are the same as the old ones. I did notice the old plates did not have the anti-rattle on them and the new ones do. I cleaned the old plates and reinstalled with the new disk. Readjusted everything and it still binds but is better. I can get it into gear without stalling, but it's still grabbing, and you can't adjust it out. Also, you can't get it back into neutral.
 
Sarg710 said:
Pulled plates and pads again. Measured the holes and they are the same as the old ones. I did notice the old plates did not have the anti-rattle on them and the new ones do. I cleaned the old plates and reinstalled with the new disk. Readjusted everything and it still binds but is better. I can get it into gear without stalling, but it's still grabbing, and you can't adjust it out. Also, you can't get it back into neutral.
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Ok at least there is some progress starting to happen here. Check and see if there is a stacked clutch height available for your year bike. I believe you said you have a 4 speed transmission correct me if I am wrong. Maybe the vendor sold you a misidentified clutch pack. Another thing that I am thinking is that maybe the clutch basket/hub is binding when it is going on drive shaft and sliding over the woodruff key. I am just thinking that something is preventing full disengagement of the clutches when you engage the clutch lever. I am not trying to send you on a wild goose chase just trying to give you outside the box ideas, as I know that when frustration sets in a clear mind is not possible.
 
I appreciate your thoughts and ideas and yes frustration has set in. I can't find a stack height spec for this bike but yes, it is a 4 speed. I measured the old plates and disks, and the new ones are the same. It seems like the hub is not seating all the way on the shaft. I say that because I put it on, torque it down and test it. Then I take it apart and the hub comes right off without having to pull it. I know the tolerances are very tight and even a thousandth can be the difference. If I'm getting the proper push rod travel of .060 but the hub is not seated, I would think that would in effect shorten the travel and not allow the plates to separate fully. I know at this point I'm just thinking out loud and have no idea how it's possible because there is clearance between the hub and the primary case, it's not rubbing. I'm leaning toward getting a new hub but see no reason why this one won't work.
 
Well, I finally got it. The bearing retainer plate was the only piece I hadn't measured. The new plate was .015 thicker and was causing the disk to bind, basically changing the separation from .060 to .045. I pulled it and tested with just the grease shield, and it worked perfect. I really do appreciate all your help.
 
Sarg710 said:
Well, I finally got it. The bearing retainer plate was the only piece I hadn't measured. The new plate was .015 thicker and was causing the disk to bind, basically changing the separation from .060 to .045. I pulled it and tested with just the grease shield, and it worked perfect. I really do appreciate all your help.
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No problem glade you got the problem solved.
 
When the clutch on my Wide Glide would not disengage, it was the ball and ramp assembly on the right side of the transmission. The ball was sticking/fell out holding the rod fully extended. Just saying!!
 
Blue Wide Glide said:
When the clutch on my Wide Glide would not disengage, it was the ball and ramp assembly on the right side of the transmission. The ball was sticking/fell out holding the rod fully extended. Just saying!!
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Glad you went back into right hand side clutch release cover and took a second look, as I had previously mentioned to check the throw out bearing that is in the same area, though it was not the throw out bearing you would have noticed the ball bearing in the cover. Anyway glad you took a second look and found the problem. Bet you are a happy camper now. Enjoy the ride. You now have a level of satisfaction knowing that you found the problem.
 
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