First time post but have gotten many good answers from this site. I've finished a frame off rebuild of a 1982 FXS, shovelhead, 4-speed. I've set many clutches but never had this problem. No matter how I adjust the clutch it will not disengage. I've set the adjustment screw to factory specs and as described in many threads on here. The spring pressure has been set at 1 1/32" and adjusted the cable play to 1/16 inch. I've checked the pressure plate travel and it's dead on .060 but will not release. New plates, disk, springs and cable. Any help would be appreciated.
82 FXS Clutch setup problems.
- Thread starter Sarg710
- Start date
Frenchie
Member
Back off the clutch cable adjustment , loosen the clutch push rod adjustment and then adjust the clutch push rod adjuster screw until the clutch cable release lever is adjusted until you have 13/16 gap between the top of the trans case and the release arm. You should have some wiggle in release arm. Then attach clutch cable to release arm and adjust the cable so there is 1/4 inch free play. Hope fully this adjustment works let us know.
Frenchie
Member
Chec the studs in the clutch basket that the friction plates travel on if the studs are bend then the friction plates can hang up. Also check the friction plate holes that slide along the studs. If all push rod and lever adjustments are set then the studs or the friction plate holes are the only other items that I can think of that would prevent the plates from separating. When you had the push rod adjuster out did you remove the push rod and check the end that seats where the throw out bearing is to see if the end was mushroomed?or maybe the throw out bearing retainer let loose not allowing the push rod to fully travel to disengage the clutches when you pull in the clutch lever.
The basket is original to the bike and showed minor wear on the studs. I polished each stud before reassembly. Bike had 23000 on it when tore down. The hub is a replacement due to starter ring teeth chewed up pretty bad. plates and disk seem to move freely when assembled, did not appear anything was bent. Push rod, bearing and oil slinger all good. I've never had one where I couldn't get it to a point for it to release and I could adjust it from there. I am completely out of ideas.
Breeze3at
Experienced Member
Compare this diagram with your parts assembly and order of plate stacking. https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel/13/harleydavidsonmc/21
Frenchie
Member
So I read back through the posts. And you said that you are getting .060 lift from the pressure plate when you engage the clutch. So that would indicate that the push rod and and cable adjustment are doing there job in creating a gap for the clutch to disengage. Then the problem has to do with the clutch stack assembly sticking. On your metal pressure plates is the an out stamped on one side? If so they must be facing out towards the pressure plate. Do the metal pressure plates have an anti rattle device on the outside area if so they must Be staggered. Are you running a three or five stud set up? Is the pressure plate stock or are you running an aftermarket pressure plate that has a recess for the springs to sit in. If it is aftermarket then the spring height measurement will be different. Are you running a wet or dry primary?
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Frenchie
Member
Do you have seal on the end of the clutch push rod nut that prevents transmission oil from migrating past push rod. If so it could be allowing trans oils to leak on clutch pack causing plates to stick. I am still sticking with something mechanical causing plate to not separate or trans oil leaking on plates not allowing them to separate. If you go back into the clutch basket make sure the studs are true. Keep us posted
Pulled stack apart again, they are clean and move freely on the studs. New seal on the push rod end, no signs of anything getting past it or anything in the hub itself. Plates and disk are new, but I checked them for flatness. I found one of the disk is not perfectly flat. The fiber part is flat but the metal center that slides onto the studs has a slight bow to it. It slides fine on the studs but that is the only thing I have found. I don't believe it's enough to keep it locked up, maybe creep in gear a little but not kill the motor when you put it in gear. I will replace that one and see what happens.