2007 Road King 103" Stalling at Idle When Hot

[RibEye]

Just an alternate thought:

A fuel injector wire that is broken inside the insulation could contribute, if not cause, your symptoms. I have seen bad crimps on the connector to an injector that caused intermittent connection, without throwing an injector code. Why it happens when hot is accounted for by the insulation softening and allowing a slight shift in conductor alignment. This problem would worsen at idle, since there is all kinds of jumping around. A good continuity and wiggle test would exclude this possibility.

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[dolt]

BTW, Rod might want to install a quick disconnect at the fuel cross over to avoid spilling gas should he have to remove the tank again.

Did some searching on P0505 and this code seems to be occurring at a higher than normal rate on '07 models. Some 07s had download updates, some had throttle blade stop screw issues (IAC backed out or left the scene completely), some have cracked throttle plate shafts, some have intake leaks, some had bad speedo sensors (VSS). Rod should be focusing on those

 

[Rod Stewart]

Just an alternate thought:
A fuel injector wire that is broken inside the insulation could contribute, if not cause, your symptoms. I have seen bad crimps on the connector to an injector that caused intermittent connection, without throwing an injector code. Why it happens when hot is accounted for by the insulation softening and allowing a slight shift in conductor alignment. This problem would worsen at idle, since there is all kinds of jumping around. A good continuity and wiggle test would exclude this possibility.

Enjoy,
Rich P

Interesting comment. Will definitely take a look at the injector wiring. Thanks!

BTW, Rod might want to install a quick disconnect at the fuel cross over to avoid spilling gas should he have to remove the tank again.

Did some searching on P0505 and this code seems to be occurring at a higher than normal rate on '07 models. Some 07s had download updates, some had throttle blade stop screw issues (IAC backed out or left the scene completely), some have cracked throttle plate shafts, some have intake leaks, some had bad speedo sensors (VSS). Rod should be focusing on those

dolt;
Thanks for these and your earlier comments regarding cracked butterfly shaft. All things I will take a look at. Worst case I have a complete spare used throttle body with all senders intact; I guess I could swap that in and see if the problem goes away.
I like the idea of a quick disconnect on the fuel tank crossover! It would have to be a style that shuts off both connectors when disconnected, should be easy enough to find.
Another idea would be to locate a male connector that fits the fuel tank quick disconnect, then connect 3-4 feet of hose to it, and use the bike fuel pump to empty the fuel to almost nil before unfastening the tank crossover hose. This would minimize the mess. This should probably be done after syphoning as much gas as possible out.
Anyone done that?

 

[dolt]

A poor injector wire connection or broken injector wire will not throw the P0505 code. Injector related codes are P02xx

 

[RibEye]

A poor injector wire connection or broken injector wire will not throw the P0505 code. Injector related codes are P02xx

The issue is that an intermittent injector connection will not throw any code unless near to a complete break. The injector has to fail to fire for a significant period (many missed fires in a row) before a code will be thrown. Any firing, albeit significantly intermittent, will prevent the injector code, but could cause other issues, for which codes could be thrown. This is not a definitive analysis, just a thought for consideration. I have experienced great pain trying to track down what I am describing, with no codes to guide me (lots of maybe this, maybe that shotgunning).

Enjoy,
Rich P.

 

[TQuentin1]

Another idea would be to locate a male connector that fits the fuel tank quick disconnect, then connect 3-4 feet of hose to it, and use the bike fuel pump to empty the fuel to almost nil before unfastening the tank crossover hose. This would minimize the mess. This should probably be done after syphoning as much gas as possible out.
Anyone done that?

Sounds like a good idea. But I just huff a bit of gas out of the lowest point in the tank I can get to with a 3/8" clear plastic tubing then pop the free end in a jerry can and let it siphon as much fuel out of the tank as possible. If the in-tank end is at a low spot, the only gas that will be left will be in the transfer hose itself, and any heel in the part of the tank on the right side below the transfer hose. Might be able to get to that with the siphon hose if really diligent.

Cheers,

TQ

 

[dolt]

Hoses, containers to store fuel, siphoning, re-filling the tank later, why?? For the same amount of work a QD can be installed as shown in the photo and tank removal is a snap; push and click; done and without spilling a drop. Well, you can lead a horse.....................................

The issue is that an intermittent injector connection will not throw any code unless near to a complete break. The injector has to fail to fire for a significant period (many missed fires in a row) before a code will be thrown. Any firing, albeit significantly intermittent, will prevent the injector code, but could cause other issues, for which codes could be thrown. This is not a definitive analysis, just a thought for consideration. I have experienced great pain trying to track down what I am describing, with no codes to guide me (lots of maybe this, maybe that shotgunning).

Enjoy,
Rich P.

Understood; however, just saying that Rod should be chasing down the most likely ailments that would cause the P0505 code to be generated before going down rabbit holes and "shotgunning". JMHO.

 

[Rod Stewart]

BTW, Rod might want to install a quick disconnect at the fuel cross over to avoid spilling gas should he have to remove the tank again.

dolt; in your picture (which I just found), those couplers look like standard air line couplers; are they?
If so, have you had any trouble with leakage or gas weeping?
Once disconnected, in your picture the left side should seal, leaving only the right side open to drain. That is much easier than trying to catch both sides like you need to when disconnecting the standard xover hose. You could even leave the gas in the right side that doesn't drain while removing the tank, since its not going anywhere.

 

[dolt]

dolt; in your picture (which I just found), those couplers look like standard air line couplers; are they? If so, have you had any trouble with leakage or gas weeping? Once disconnected, in your picture the left side should seal, leaving only the right side open to drain. That is much easier than trying to catch both sides like you need to when disconnecting the standard xover hose. You could even leave the gas in the right side that doesn't drain while removing the tank, since its not going anywhere.

No, the couplers are not air line couplers which don't have O-rings that will stand up to fuel. The coupler I use and shown in the photo is a Goodridge; a bit pricey but is chrome plated brass. The right coupler will seal both sides, no drips, not even fumes will escape when disconnected. If you wanted to empty the tank, you could rig up a piece of hose with the female end of a coupler and once the QD is un-coupled, plug that piece of hose into the male connector and drain the tank.

Motion Pro makes a shorter coupler, plastic and cheaper but with good internals. The one in the photo is white but I have seen similar couplers in black. You want a dual shut off coupler; Jiffy-Tite, ocd.machine and Ebay are other sources. If you purchase, order a couple of extra O-rings. I have never experienced and weepage, leakage. You will lose a drop or two if you don't get the hang of reconnecting and fumble the re-connect and have to go at it a second time.

http://www.motionpro.com/product/12-0038
http://www.ocdmachine.com/1-line-516-in-line-fuel-quick-disconnect-kit.html

 

[Rod Stewart]

dolt; OK I did a search and came up with several options that look good. I am leaning away from the plastic body idea, though they are way cheaper. I know what happens to plastic when exposed to such things as fuel, UV, and heat. Also these fittings will always have a non-axial bend when fastened, due to the turns that the hose pieces have to take; and that is bound to make them fail sooner than otherwise. The thought of gas dripping onto hot engine and exhaust parts is not appealing, so I'll stick with metal fittings Plus I really like the idea that both ends seal off. That way you can just leave whatever gas is left in either side just sit there.
Thanks for the idea! Its one of those "Why the heck didn't I think of that?" things.