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2 Bolts on Rear Fender Touching Seat

I think BUBBIE came up with the best plan yet, mark the spot on your seat where the bolts hit and take out just enough of material on the bottom of the seat to give you the clearance you need. I wouldn't grind the heads of the bolts as you may have to remove the bolts someday and that could open a whole new problem.
 
MAYBE Not a good option in some minds BUT could you drill out to fit OR a radius off the seat bottom (not all the way thru) to help clear the heads on the Seat Bottom where they touch?:shock

signed....BUBBIE

No real downside except possible voiding of warranty by drilling holes in the seat pan should there ever be an issue with the seat within the warranty period. You would think that a seat manufacturer like LaPera would sell a seat that fit without modification. If I were the OP, I would likely be looking at other seats that did not require modification. JMHO.

There is plenty of stud length to use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to shorten the studs. A little touch up to the end of the stud with the proper thread die and there will be no drama removing the nuts or using the studs to fasten a solo seat. JMHO.:hii
 
No real downside except possible voiding of warranty by drilling holes in the seat pan should there ever be an issue with the seat within the warranty period. You would think that a seat manufacturer like LaPera would sell a seat that fit without modification. If I were the OP, I would likely be looking at other seats that did not require modification. JMHO.

There is plenty of stud length to use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to shorten the studs. A little touch up to the end of the stud with the proper thread die and there will be no drama removing the nuts or using the studs to fasten a solo seat. JMHO.:hii

I guess I'm confused, how is taking thread length off the bolt going to seat it farther into the fender? The head of the torque bolt will still protrude out of the fender at the same height. What am I missing here?
 
I guess I'm confused, how is taking thread length off the bolt going to seat it farther into the fender? The head of the torque bolt will still protrude out of the fender at the same height. What am I missing here?

The terminology may be misleading. I think what the OP is referring to as bolts are actually studs that are attached to a stud plate on the inside of the fender. The right side of the stud plate is shaped to clip the rear end wiring harness up against the inside of the fender; #16 in the attached diagram.



This stud plate is common to all touring models that I am familiar with and, unless something changed in 2015, the stud plate is still there. What I have been suggesting is to shorten the studs. Again, something may be different in the 2015 models but the studs on the earlier touring models that I am familiar with extend an inch or more above the nut that secures the stud plate. I am guessing that the OP can shorten those studs at least 1/4"-1/2" which should give him the clearance he needs to clear the seat pan.

If I have it wrong, then I am the confused one, not you. It is hard to tell from the photos from above but I believe a photo from the side would clear things up.:hii
 
I guess I'm confused, how is taking thread length off the bolt going to seat it farther into the fender? The head of the torque bolt will still protrude out of the fender at the same height. What am I missing here?

I think you're 180 degrees off. Reread post #16. The head of the bolt is under the fender holding the stud plate mentioned up snug against the bottom of the fender. The bolt then protrudes up through the fender and is secured with a nut. It's the excess portion of bolt above the nut that seems to be causing the seat problem.

Before permanently altering the seat at all, I would follow Dolt's suggestion - cut off a tiny bit of the protruding bolt and refit the seat into place. If you didn't remove enough, cut a bit more off. Repeat until there is no contact between the bolt and the seat. Of course, do not continue this process to the point where there's not enough thread to secure the nut onto.
 
Now I'm really confused. The pic in post #1 the 2 bolts shown on the fender sure look like torque head bolts and not nuts. My input was based on what I Interpreted the bolts to be.
 
Now I'm really confused. The pic in post #1 the 2 bolts shown on the fender sure look like torque head bolts and not nuts. My input was based on what I Interpreted the bolts to be.

Jeff,
I agree that the fasteners in the small view of the OPs photo look like bolt heads but they are not. Even in the large view of the photo, the top fastener looks like the head of a bolt but if you look at the bottom fastener in the large view, you should see the stud extending up from the nut.:s
 
Jeff,
I agree that the fasteners in the small view of the OPs photo look like bolt heads but they are not. Even in the large view of the photo, the top fastener looks like the head of a bolt but if you look at the bottom fastener in the large view, you should see the stud extending up from the nut.:s

You are correct sir, The old peepers aren't what they use to be. After putting on the cheater glasses I can see the faint image of the stud. Your suggestion should work as you described. I just couldn't wrap my head around what you were getting at when I thought it was a bolt head. Sorry for my confusion.
 
You are correct sir, The old peepers aren't what they use to be. After putting on the cheater glasses I can see the faint image of the stud. Your suggestion should work as you described. I just couldn't wrap my head around what you were getting at when I thought it was a bolt head. Sorry for my confusion.

Understood, no worries.:hii
 
You are correct sir, The old peepers aren't what they use to be. After putting on the cheater glasses I can see the faint image of the stud. Your suggestion should work as you described. I just couldn't wrap my head around what you were getting at when I thought it was a bolt head. Sorry for my confusion.

Same here, Jeff. I had to go back to the first photo and really zoom in and concentrate on the bottom one to convince myself that it was the stud sticking up through the nut. Then Dolt's diagram made it crystal clear!
 
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