Clutch adjustment problems

[turnerbend]

Very good write up
Thanks

 

[buelly6465]

I'll try this one! I've tried all the others and they seem to work well until bike warms up and then it starts to creep in first at a stop, or if I go to neutral after warm at a stop and go to first with green light it will die on me. When I bought the bike it had 29k on it the seller said they replaced as I recall " some of the clutch plates" could that be my problem?
I really don't know much at all about clutches and their workings. But could some of the clutch plates be sticking, arent they fairly inexpensive so why would you only replace some of them and not all?

 

[BUBBIE]

I'll try this one! I've tried all the others and they seem to work well until bike warms up and then it starts to creep in first at a stop, or if I go to neutral after warm at a stop and go to first with green light it will die on me. When I bought the bike it had 29k on it the seller said they replaced as I recall " some of the clutch plates" could that be my problem?
I really don't know much at all about clutches and their workings. But could some of the clutch plates be sticking, arent they fairly inexpensive so why would you only replace some of them and not all?[/QUOTE]

Would of Liked to Known this at the front....

YES is your answer... Using MY clutch adjustment SHOULD OF WORKED Just FINE.......

You just answered your own problem.

New clutch parts Needed..... Toss out ALL the used plates for all new ones and You'll be on your way...

Please use MY BUBBIE's method not the too tight one at the top post here (all due Respect)....
Not the way to adjust a clutch.

signed....BUBBIE

 

[Michael Bertrand]

Clutch adjustment is fairly simple once you get the hang of it. here is how I have been doing it for years with excellent results, some may disagree but it has been working fine with no return complaints.
1). COMPLETELY loosen the cable adjuster
2). Loosen the jamnut on the clutch adjuster a good bit, a couple of turns at least.
when you do this you want to pay close attention to how it feels. If it feels chunky
or sticky then take it completely out clean it up and get it turning freely both in the
plate it screws into as well as the jamnut turning freely along the entire length of the
adjuster.
3). Thread the adjuster back into the plate in the center of the clutch assembly 3 or 4
threads then stop. Now push and pull on the adjuster and make note of how the
plate moves under the snap ring that holds it in place.
4). Continue to thread the adjuster into its center plate untill the first point of contact
with the push rod, or zero lash. Cross check your work by backing the adjuster out
just a bit then back in, you will be able to determine zero lash by observing when
center plate just makes contact with the snap ring that holds it in place.Confirm
by attempting to pull and push on the adjuster as you did in step 3. There should
be no movement at this point, but also no noticeable pressure on the adjuster.
5). When you are positive you are exactly at zero lash, no more no less, continue to
turn the adjuster in 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. This will set the preload on the pressure
plate. 1/8 turn max for new clutch plates 1/4 turn max for rework or clutch plates
with a bunch of miles on them.
6). wipe the adjuster bolt with a rag wetted with some carb cleaner to get all the oil off
it, put 1 drop of blue locktite on the adjuster where the jamnut is going to sit over
it, run the jamnut down and torque it to aprx 1 grunt (thats a technical term).
7). Pull the clutch lever all the way to the hand grip. remove the slack from the cable
adjuster, watching the clutch lever move as you do this. As you get close to the
lever being in its fully extended position, continue removeing slack from the cable
adjuster, use a dime as a gauge between the clutch lever and the clutch perch to
determine the correct freeplay in the lever, when a dime will just barely stay in
place on its own due to cable pressure STOP. Operate the clutch lever while
observing the clutch adjuster. As you squeeze the lever the pull should be smooth
and even, and the adjuster will visually move in and out slightly.
8). Secure the jamnuts on the cable adjuster. Put everything back together clean up
wash your hands and give it a test run.

As you mentioned the motor/clutch MUST be stonecold, If you got it right neutral will be very easy to find, and the bike wont lurch or creep when you shift from neutral to first.

You will find that this procedure is made much easier if you use a T-handle allen wrench for turning the clutch adjuster, as this allows you to better gauge the 1/8 to 1/4 turn when setting the preload on the pressure plate. You can also make a jamnut wrench by having a 4 or 5 inch piece of 5/16 round bar welded on to the base of a deep well socket. This allows you to use the T handle allen wrench to precisely hold the adjuster through the square hole where the ratchet would normally go into the socket while you apply that critical 1 grunt of force to the jamnut. Keeping the adjuster from moving while setting the jamnut is absolutely critical, as the difference between a properly adjusted clutch and a maladjusted one is infintismal. If there is no lurching or creeping when shifting from nuetral to first you are ready to road test. When you get out on the road get rolling slowly (about 25 mph in 3rd gear) then briskly roll on the throttle. If the motor bogs a bit before cleanly accelerating you are good. If the motor revs faster than the bike accelerates then the clutch is slipping and a readjustment is in order. So in review if the bike is creeping with the clutch lever against the grip, and neutral is hard to find, or first gear is hard to get at a stand still, then there is NOT enough preload on the pressure plate. If the clutch slips under brisk acceleration then there is TOO MUCH preload on the pressure plate. DO NOT be tempted to make even slight adjustments with the cable adjuster, that is there solely to control the amount of preload on the throw out bearing, which you will certainly tear to shreds in short order if there is continual pressure on it.

Sorry for being so long winded, hope it helps

I know this thread is from years ago but I’m having issues adjusting my clutch. I read your thread about how to adjust it but I’m not getting it. I’ll start with when I squeeze my clutch lever all the way and hit it into first, my bike wants to move forward. I googled how to adjust it and every time I adjust it it does the same thing. The only way I could get it from creeping forward is to have no play in my clutch lever but doing so makes it extremely hard to find neutral and go into gear hard.

 

[ThunderRogue]

If you're turning your clutch adjuster screw out 1 turn or 3/4 turn try going 1/2 or even 1/4 turn out. As long as you have some free play at the lever you'll be okay. And it may be a learning curve thing. There's lots of info needed about your setup in order for anyone to give good advice.

 

[Jeff Klarich]

Try this method and you should be good to go.


Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

(Disclaimer) I may not always be righ