Clutch adjustment is fairly simple once you get the hang of it. here is how I have been doing it for years with excellent results, some may disagree but it has been working fine with no return complaints.
1). COMPLETELY loosen the cable adjuster
2). Loosen the jamnut on the clutch adjuster a good bit, a couple of turns at least.
when you do this you want to pay close attention to how it feels. If it feels chunky
or sticky then take it completely out clean it up and get it turning freely both in the
plate it screws into as well as the jamnut turning freely along the entire length of the
adjuster.
3). Thread the adjuster back into the plate in the center of the clutch assembly 3 or 4
threads then stop. Now push and pull on the adjuster and make note of how the
plate moves under the snap ring that holds it in place.
4). Continue to thread the adjuster into its center plate untill the first point of contact
with the push rod, or zero lash. Cross check your work by backing the adjuster out
just a bit then back in, you will be able to determine zero lash by observing when
center plate just makes contact with the snap ring that holds it in place.Confirm
by attempting to pull and push on the adjuster as you did in step 3. There should
be no movement at this point, but also no noticeable pressure on the adjuster.
5). When you are positive you are exactly at zero lash, no more no less, continue to
turn the adjuster in 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. This will set the preload on the pressure
plate. 1/8 turn max for new clutch plates 1/4 turn max for rework or clutch plates
with a bunch of miles on them.
6). wipe the adjuster bolt with a rag wetted with some carb cleaner to get all the oil off
it, put 1 drop of blue locktite on the adjuster where the jamnut is going to sit over
it, run the jamnut down and torque it to aprx 1 grunt (thats a technical term).
7). Pull the clutch lever all the way to the hand grip. remove the slack from the cable
adjuster, watching the clutch lever move as you do this. As you get close to the
lever being in its fully extended position, continue removeing slack from the cable
adjuster, use a dime as a gauge between the clutch lever and the clutch perch to
determine the correct freeplay in the lever, when a dime will just barely stay in
place on its own due to cable pressure STOP. Operate the clutch lever while
observing the clutch adjuster. As you squeeze the lever the pull should be smooth
and even, and the adjuster will visually move in and out slightly.
8). Secure the jamnuts on the cable adjuster. Put everything back together clean up
wash your hands and give it a test run.
As you mentioned the motor/clutch MUST be stonecold, If you got it right neutral will be very easy to find, and the bike wont lurch or creep when you shift from neutral to first.
You will find that this procedure is made much easier if you use a T-handle allen wrench for turning the clutch adjuster, as this allows you to better gauge the 1/8 to 1/4 turn when setting the preload on the pressure plate. You can also make a jamnut wrench by having a 4 or 5 inch piece of 5/16 round bar welded on to the base of a deep well socket. This allows you to use the T handle allen wrench to precisely hold the adjuster through the square hole where the ratchet would normally go into the socket while you apply that critical 1 grunt of force to the jamnut. Keeping the adjuster from moving while setting the jamnut is absolutely critical, as the difference between a properly adjusted clutch and a maladjusted one is infintismal. If there is no lurching or creeping when shifting from nuetral to first you are ready to road test. When you get out on the road get rolling slowly (about 25 mph in 3rd gear) then briskly roll on the throttle. If the motor bogs a bit before cleanly accelerating you are good. If the motor revs faster than the bike accelerates then the clutch is slipping and a readjustment is in order. So in review if the bike is creeping with the clutch lever against the grip, and neutral is hard to find, or first gear is hard to get at a stand still, then there is NOT enough preload on the pressure plate. If the clutch slips under brisk acceleration then there is TOO MUCH preload on the pressure plate. DO NOT be tempted to make even slight adjustments with the cable adjuster, that is there solely to control the amount of preload on the throw out bearing, which you will certainly tear to shreds in short order if there is continual pressure on it.
Sorry for being so long winded, hope it helps
