Thunder max VS Power Commander
- Thread starter PeteINny
- Start date
shovelrider
Member
Have used both products with success & if tuned properly on a dyno
you will notice a considerable difference.The Thundermax is a direct replacement for the stock ECM While the Powercommander piggybacks off of the stock ECM.Hope this helps.
you will notice a considerable difference.The Thundermax is a direct replacement for the stock ECM While the Powercommander piggybacks off of the stock ECM.Hope this helps.
biscuit
Junior Member
I run a T/max with autotune in my 2008 FLSTN.As mentioned,the T/max is a direct replacement for the H-D ECU,and in the autotune mode,it comes with wide band Oxygen sensors that replace the narrow band H-D items.Basically,you remove the stock ECU,Oxygen sensors and associated wiring and replace those with the Thundermax bits.Pretty easy overall,although i found Zippers to be a little parsimonious with the front wiring harness.A couple of inches short of a good length.
It works by having a particular engine base map loaded into the ECU.This map is a reflection of any mods or alterations that you have done to your bike.There is a considerable number of base maps available to you on the software that comes with the T/max,and even if there is NO DIRECT (100%) match,there will be one that is pretty close.The beauty of the autotune function means that the system will overcome any disparities and eventually tune itself to match.Also,this process means that no Dyno time is needed to tune.You can either load a base yourself,or you specify your criteria and the shop you buy it from can probably load it for you.
I'm happy with mine.My bike is running really well and my fuel consumption hovers around 44-45 mpg.However,i dont ride hard and all my work is roughly between 2200-3000 rpm.
Furthermore,there are a number a great 'How-To' videos on physically installing the T/max and on how to actually Load a map.
Just go to You tube and put in Thundermax.
A long post i know;but you wanted some info.
Good luck.
It works by having a particular engine base map loaded into the ECU.This map is a reflection of any mods or alterations that you have done to your bike.There is a considerable number of base maps available to you on the software that comes with the T/max,and even if there is NO DIRECT (100%) match,there will be one that is pretty close.The beauty of the autotune function means that the system will overcome any disparities and eventually tune itself to match.Also,this process means that no Dyno time is needed to tune.You can either load a base yourself,or you specify your criteria and the shop you buy it from can probably load it for you.
I'm happy with mine.My bike is running really well and my fuel consumption hovers around 44-45 mpg.However,i dont ride hard and all my work is roughly between 2200-3000 rpm.
Furthermore,there are a number a great 'How-To' videos on physically installing the T/max and on how to actually Load a map.
Just go to You tube and put in Thundermax.
A long post i know;but you wanted some info.
Good luck.
Hoople
Account Removed
I never have used the T/Max (I am using SEST) but it is easy to understand why it even works BETTER than a High $$ Dyno tune. An inertia Dyno tune is nothing more than a WOT blast for a few seconds. They are tuning at low map pressures only and they do not take into account any "cruise" A/F ratio's because they can't (if using an inertia dyno).
On the other hand, you are already paying rent on the best dyno available which are Public Roads. Every possible type of load there is will be matched to the perfect A/F ratio by the firmware in the T/max ECM.
If you have the Wide Band setup with auto tune, I can not see any advantage to using a Dyno.
If your using a narrow band set-up, you will have to dyno tune.
Hoople
Account Removed
Look at Any dyno pull chart you can find. Look at the bottom A/F ratio portion. In most cases what do you see? An A/F ratio of ~13.5 :1 matched against a WOT pull. That is too lean for those conditions. The hands of the tech are tied by the EPA so he can not do much. With wide band autotune, you are now the EPA.
Just something you should know if your going to get your feet wet in the Wide Band arena. Wide band sensors are somewhat fragile. Much more so than narrow band. They make comparisons of internal pipe O2 concentrations to the outside world. They "breath". You should be very careful what comes in contact to the exterior exposed sensor. Things like wax, cleaners, silicone, oil, pledge, kerosine can do permanent damage to a Wide band sensor. You will have 1 for each pipe. They will require "free air calibration" if they get contaminated or as they age.
The good side is they are not expensive to replace. About $60 each.
Just something you should know if your going to get your feet wet in the Wide Band arena. Wide band sensors are somewhat fragile. Much more so than narrow band. They make comparisons of internal pipe O2 concentrations to the outside world. They "breath". You should be very careful what comes in contact to the exterior exposed sensor. Things like wax, cleaners, silicone, oil, pledge, kerosine can do permanent damage to a Wide band sensor. You will have 1 for each pipe. They will require "free air calibration" if they get contaminated or as they age.
The good side is they are not expensive to replace. About $60 each.
Hoople,
Thanks, good to know. I like the idea of auto calibration. I would imagine that it will do away with allot of the dyno work and the techs involved. The nice part I see about this unit is that you can change different aspects of your stage one. If you buy one type of air cleaner and later down the road you find something else you like, you can bolt it on without going back to do dyno work. I wonder how reliable one of these units are? I have not read too many bad things after the initial set up.
Thanks, good to know. I like the idea of auto calibration. I would imagine that it will do away with allot of the dyno work and the techs involved. The nice part I see about this unit is that you can change different aspects of your stage one. If you buy one type of air cleaner and later down the road you find something else you like, you can bolt it on without going back to do dyno work. I wonder how reliable one of these units are? I have not read too many bad things after the initial set up.
Hoople
Account Removed
That I could not tell you because I have zero experience on them. If I remember correctly Hobbit knows and understands them. You may want to tag him for his opinion.