Thoughts on current purchases

[JordanT]

I own a 2010 Street Glide 96" factory two into 1 header with SE SE slip-ons and a SE compensator. It is currently tuned with the SE street tuner map due to ESP that runs out in spring.
I have waiting to install:
Power vision tuner
A SuperTrapp supermeg 2 into 1
SE 255 cam (good used set)
SE adjustable pushrods.
What are everyone's thoughts on the exhaust, tuner and cams?

Ok next question, with the 96" motor and SE 255 cam, will I have hot start issues.
According to Bigboyz calculation with my bike, stock .045 head gasket SE 255 cam will produce 182.1 Cold cranking compression where I live at about 700 above sea level.
At sea level it will produce 185.1 Cold cranking compression.

Thanks for the feedback everyone

 

[gator508]

Hmmm, that's above my pay grade but some of our experts should chime in to help.

 

[dolt]

Nothing wrong with the plan if not looking for much performance past 4000rpms where the SE255 falls on it's face. It's a torque cam, great for a two up and loaded touring model but just doesn't make much HP. However, if giving a bit of off idle torque but pulling to about 4600 and making more HP, the Andrews 48 would be a better choice. No hot start issues at 185CCP with either cam, very moderate compression. SE pushrods should be the quick install tapered units; 18484-08 IIRC.

If you are not afraid of compression and have access to a good tuner, the S&S 583 would also be a good cam choice.

 

[JordanT]

Thanks for the response.
been fighting a vibration and still have ESP intelligence spring so i decided to take it in one last time þi have a local guy check it out. He says crankshaft has .007" runnouy on the cam side. Harley spec is .012" snd that it won't qualify for ESP warranty. That is a lot in my book but don't have 3000 bucks to put an S&S crank in it... Not sure if I should just tell him to put it back together with the factory hesdpipe/slip-on and stock cams... would the cam and exhaust make it worse or create more stress on the crank?
QUOTE="dolt, post: 605720, member: 16228"]Nothing wrong with the plan if not looking for much performance past 4000rpms where the SE255 falls on it's face. It's a torque cam, great for a two up and loaded touring model but just doesn't make much HP. However, if giving a bit of off idle torque but pulling to about 4600 and making more HP, the Andrews 48 would be a better choice. No hot start issues at 185CCP with either cam, very moderate compression. SE pushrods should be the quick install tapered units; 18484-08 IIRC.

If you are not afraid of compression and have access to a good tuner, the S&S 583 would also be a good cam choice.

 

[Frenchie]

Take a look at the woods cams for your bike they are manufactured by andrews cams to woods specs. I would stay away from adding more compression as this will add additional load on your crank and cause additional runout. A good two into exhaust will add torque. You have a street glide that is built for highway riding and long hauls. Make sure whatever you chose plays nice together in the sand box there is always a trade off just make sure it will give you what you are looking for. All manufacturers are trying to sell there products as the next best thing it is up to you to educate yourself and weed through the hype that manufacturers put out there remember they are just interested in selling there products.

 

[dolt]

Thanks for the response.
been fighting a vibration and still have ESP intelligence spring so i decided to take it in one last time to have a local guy check it out. He says crankshaft has .007" runnout on the cam side. Harley spec is .012" snd that it won't qualify for ESP warranty. That is a lot in my book but don't have 3000 bucks to put an S&S crank in it... Not sure if I should just tell him to put it back together with the factory headpipe/slip-on and stock cams... would the cam and exhaust make it worse or create more stress on the crank?

.007" TIR is a lot and it will more than likely increase and eventually, the oil pump will fail and major damage could follow. It won't save much money but your OEM crank can be sent to Darkhorse AKA Hoban Brothers to be trued/balanced and plugged or welded pr for a marginal increase in cost, be replaced with a Darkhorse 4.625" crank which will increase displacement to 110" but would also require new pistons. I understand budget is an issue but food for thought for when you might be n a position to address the current issue.

Seems to me that if funds are not available for the repair, the only option is to put it back together, live with the vibration and ride the bike conservatively until funds become available for the repair or the eventual failure of the oil pump at which time the only options wil be to park the bike until funds are available for the repair. Not a lot of options with .007" runout and no $$ to fix the problem. It is what it is and putting it back together with the exhaust and cams won't make much difference; it will be what it will be until it's not.

You could save some $$ by taking this on as a DIY project as it is labor intensive. You would just need to strip the top end, inner primary and cam chest components, pull the lower unit and send it to Darkhorse; sounds like a lot but truly not challenging but does require some specialty tools for which there are work arounds that are inexpensive. Shipping out and back plus the true/balance/plug would probably run less than $1000. Darkhorse would also check the over all condition of the crank assembly, bearings, etc.

Keep us posted.

 

[Hakira]

I bought a new exhaust for Harley, I really like Rinehart (100-0201), although it was very expensive. But it is worth it.

 

[Hakira]

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