solenoid start button/still no start?

[dbmg]

when i turn the igniton switch to start/run and go to hit the start button on the bars, nothing, no click, dead button. so reach down and use the manual solenoid button to turn the engine over, its turns over no problem, just wont fire. so something is not allowing it to fire from either?? .

You have answered your own question. Now you have to find out WHY switch will not allow ignition to fire bike.

 

[tourbox]

Have you pulled the plugs out and checked for fire there. They must be grounded & connected to the plug wires to fire. May be a little difficult if you have to reach over to push your manual button. A buddy /wife could help. Probably no fire. Disconnect the small wires on the coil and test the primary resistance. It should be 2.5-3.1 ohms. Any more or less then the coil is bad. Also check the secondary( plug wire connections) for 10k-12.5k ohms. More than or less than then coil is bad. Look for cracks on the coil also. If you ever left the key on for a long time then your coil is toast. Do you have the results for testing the Cam sensor plate? They would help. Your manual will tell how to test all the ign. system. Also check that the Black wire from the ECM is grounded to the frame.
As far as the start button not working, pull the green wire off the starter solenoid. Hook a VOM to it and test for 12Vdc when you hit the start button with Run/Kill in Run position. If not then you need to check connections(all) on your starter relay.
tourbox

 

[Vagabond]

Have you pulled the plugs out and checked for fire there. They must be grounded & connected to the plug wires to fire. May be a little difficult if you have to reach over to push your manual button. A buddy /wife could help. Probably no fire. Disconnect the small wires on the coil and test the primary resistance. It should be 2.5-3.1 ohms. Any more or less then the coil is bad. Also check the secondary( plug wire connections) for 10k-12.5k ohms. More than or less than then coil is bad. Look for cracks on the coil also. If you ever left the key on for a long time then your coil is toast. Do you have the results for testing the Cam sensor plate? They would help. Your manual will tell how to test all the ign. system. Also check that the Black wire from the ECM is grounded to the frame.
As far as the start button not working, pull the green wire off the starter solenoid. Hook a VOM to it and test for 12Vdc when you hit the start button with Run/Kill in Run position. If not then you need to check connections(all) on your starter relay.
tourbox

thanks tourbox, gonna get into the switch housing soon, waiting on new throttle/idle cables anyways. this condition happened twice, on the road(gas station to be exact). so no diagnostic tools, but i understand what your saying. so this has me thinking, even if i tried to push start the bike, regardless if solenoid pushbutton, the bike wouldnt start either??? if its not switching over(dont know how else to phrase it) to start/run, i could push the bike till me soles wore off or i had a heart attack, the bike still wouldnt start? thanks again

 

[Jack Klarich]

Harley Davidson Forums
For about 6.00 you can get one of these, it takes all the guess work out of checking for spark. If you get close to the wires it will light up, works great on small engines also IE lawn mowers and such:s

 

[tourbox]

Easiest test for the Run/Kill button is to hook a test light to the coil. With Ign. switch on and the Run/Kill in the Run position you would have light at the coil. Leave the test light hooked up, leave Ign. switch on. Then toggle the the Run/kill on and off. If test light goes on and off then your Run/Kill switch is good. Not to be a smart ellic but the Run/Kill switch has to On when you use the manual solenoid button. Keep at it and you'll eventually know what's going on
tourbox

 

[Vagabond]

Harley Davidson Forums
For about 6.00 you can get one of these, it takes all the guess work out of checking for spark. If you get close to the wires it will light up, works great on small engines also IE lawn mowers and such:s

Easiest test for the Run/Kill button is to hook a test light to the coil. With Ign. switch on and the Run/Kill in the Run position you would have light at the coil. Leave the test light hooked up, leave Ign. switch on. Then toggle the the Run/kill on and off. If test light goes on and off then your Run/Kill switch is good. Not to be a smart ellic but the Run/Kill switch has to On when you use the manual solenoid button. Keep at it and you'll eventually know what's going on
tourbox

thanks y'all, im barely off darwins list but i agree and understand what your saying, the stop/kill switch has to be in the on positon, i never ever use the dang thing anyways. i will test like you said tourbox and go through the wiring/ignition system, just thought id ask if anyone has come across this type of issue. thanks again to all, ill update to what i have found, happy new year.

 

[MilitaryMike]

Good Day,

I am having a similar problem:

1. when I turn my ignition ON (my lights and dashboard light up)
2. when I turn the switch to RUN (my lights and dashboard light up)
3. when I push the START button on the handle bars (all my lights and dashboard lights go OFF - no power).
4. I retry step # 1 (no lights, no power).

I checked google and some of the boards say it is the Starter Relay fuse that is the problem, have not tested or replaced as of yet.

Any assistance, would be appreciated.

Mike

 

[dbmg]

Good Day,

I am having a similar problem:

1. when I turn my ignition ON (my lights and dashboard light up)
2. when I turn the switch to RUN (my lights and dashboard light up)
3. when I push the START button on the handle bars (all my lights and dashboard lights go OFF - no power).
4. I retry step # 1 (no lights, no power).

I checked google and some of the boards say it is the Starter Relay fuse that is the problem, have not tested or replaced as of yet.

Any assistance, would be appreciated.

Mike

Bad battery...... Have battery properly load tested.

 

[STEVE07]

Mike check all of the battery connections and see if any are loose or corroded. I think they are just making contact intermittently. As soon as you try and draw power with the starter you lose contact.