She knocks!

[Bodeen]

Update: I pulled the S&S standards out and replaced with slightly used Comp Cams. Fired it up and suddenly remembered why I took the Comp Cams out to begin with. They are NOISY! Having said that I rode with them for quite awhile to see if the either rear lifter would bleed down when hot. Not once did that happen. So i took out a loan and bought a set of the Woods lifters. Just got those in last night and so far so good. Much, much quieter than the Comp Cam lifters. A noticeably tighter fit into the lifter bores. As noted by many, a noticeably longer pump up time too. I'm wondering if I should do a re-adjust after putting some miles on? I went to the deep side of the recommended range of .120 - .140. Any way so far so good.

Lesson here: Spend good money on LIFTERS!

 

[PA 58]

While sitting at a traffic light on the way to work the other morning. Motor started knocking while at idle at the said light and I rode it in to work (1 mile). Left work and bike started and sounded fine. Got almost home and knock started. Its clearly a knock that only happens when warm. Its not something that you have to lean over the hear, Its a KNOCK! Does it at idle and revved up. Pulled primary cover and the compensator nut is tight and all seems well in the Primary. 2003 Road King with a 98" Hillside kit and 57 cams. S.E. cam plate and oil pump with 10K miles. Tried a stethoscope and the knock is so loud it is hard to isolate. This came on with no warning other than it starting to act up at the traffic light.. I may tear into the cam chest just to see what may be happening in there....Ideas?

TIA!

I may have the heart and time to tear into some more this weekend. I'm gonna tear into the cam chest next I guess...Have a look to see whats going on in there.

While sitting at a traffic light on the way to work the other morning. Motor started knocking while at idle at the said light and I rode it in to work (1 mile). Left work and bike started and sounded fine. Got almost home and knock started. Its clearly a knock that only happens when warm. Its not something that you have to lean over the hear, Its a KNOCK! Does it at idle and revved up. Pulled primary cover and the compensator nut is tight and all seems well in the Primary. 2003 Road King with a 98" Hillside kit and 57 cams. S.E. cam plate and oil pump with 10K miles. Tried a stethoscope and the knock is so loud it is hard to isolate. This came on with no warning other than it starting to act up at the traffic light.. I may tear into the cam chest just to see what may be happening in there....Ideas?

TIA!

funny seems now mine is knocking and growling / grinding and it sounds like this link here . any idea's http://www.ask.com/youtube?q=what would be making a grinding noise in the lower end of a harley 88b motor&v=Ayk4xg9gSS4&qsrc=121&pageToken=CAoQAA&page=2

THIS IS THE RIGHT LINK (

)

 

[dolt]

Update: I pulled the S&S standards out and replaced with slightly used Comp Cams. Fired it up and suddenly remembered why I took the Comp Cams out to begin with. They are NOISY! Having said that I rode with them for quite awhile to see if the either rear lifter would bleed down when hot. Not once did that happen. So i took out a loan and bought a set of the Woods lifters. Just got those in last night and so far so good. Much, much quieter than the Comp Cam lifters. A noticeably tighter fit into the lifter bores. As noted by many, a noticeably longer pump up time too. I'm wondering if I should do a re-adjust after putting some miles on? I went to the deep side of the recommended range of .120 - .140. Any way so far so good.

Lesson here: Spend good money on LIFTERS!

Just to point out that chances are the more one spends on a set of lifters usually means less valve train noise; however, I have seen a set of Woods lifters fail out of the box and Comp Cams lifters run for miles and miles and miles with nary a tick. Some days you eat the bear and some days the bear eats you.

Sounds like you have solved the problem and that is always good news.

 

[PA 58]

THIS IS THE RIGHT LINK (

)

well as it turns out ; i called one of the moderators here on the forum and bingo He shows up at my door the next day. we listen to the noise and He said lets look in the primary. so we did .turned out to be a loose compensator bolt. a couple of beers and bam! fixed. MANY THANKS Bodeen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dolt]

You are fortunate to have a knowledgeable forum member that close. Very common for early compensators to come loose due to factory stack up tolerances. The MoCo sold shims to address the issue but most of us that had earlier models addressed the issue by pulling the comp nut and shaving .030"-.060" off and reinstalling. The variance in manufacturing tolerances sometimes resulted in the comp nut "bottoming" against the shaft allowing the specified torque to be applied but not the clamping pressure required to keep the comp nut from loosening up again. If you applied some red Loctite, you may be good to go but should the knock resurface, pull the comp nut and shave .030"-.060

Check out the attached diagram that shows both solutions, shim behind the comp not or shortening the comp nut. I believe the PN for the shims has become obsolete, so shortening the nut may be the only solution.

 

[Bodeen]

You are fortunate to have a knowledgeable forum member that close. Very common for early compensators to come loose due to factory stack up tolerances. The MoCo sold shims to address the issue but most of us that had earlier models addressed the issue by pulling the comp nut and shaving .030"-.060" off and reinstalling. The variance in manufacturing tolerances sometimes resulted in the comp nut "bottoming" against the shaft allowing the specified torque to be applied but not the clamping pressure required to keep the comp nut from loosening up again. If you applied some red Loctite, you may be good to go but should the knock resurface, pull the comp nut and shave .030"-.060

Check out the attached diagram that shows both solutions, shim behind the comp not or shortening the comp nut. I believe the PN for the shims has become obsolete, so shortening the nut may be the only solution.

I knew this was an issue on the earlier models but wasnt sure of the years. His is a 2005 and we discussed this very thing may have to be done. I cleaned all the threads up really clean and fresh red loctite was used. PA, you should save Dolt's attachment above just in case.

 

[PA 58]

I knew this was an issue on the earlier models but wasnt sure of the years. His is a 2005 and we discussed this very thing may have to be done. I cleaned all the threads up really clean and fresh red loctite was used. PA, you should save Dolt's attachment above just in case.

only time will tell. if it comes loose again it will get a shaving. but at least i know what it sounds like now. again THANKS.

 

[dolt]

I knew this was an issue on the earlier models but wasnt sure of the years. His is a 2005 and we discussed this very thing may have to be done. I cleaned all the threads up really clean and fresh red loctite was used. PA, you should save Dolt's attachment above just in case.

Maybe PA58 will not have any more issues. The issue was overtaken by events when the comp was "upgraded" '07 and up.

 

[Bodeen]

Update: I pulled the S&S standards out and replaced with slightly used Comp Cams. Fired it up and suddenly remembered why I took the Comp Cams out to begin with. They are NOISY! Having said that I rode with them for quite awhile to see if the either rear lifter would bleed down when hot. Not once did that happen. So i took out a loan and bought a set of the Woods lifters. Just got those in last night and so far so good. Much, much quieter than the Comp Cam lifters. A noticeably tighter fit into the lifter bores. As noted by many, a noticeably longer pump up time too. I'm wondering if I should do a re-adjust after putting some miles on? I went to the deep side of the recommended range of .120 - .140. Any way so far so good.

Lesson here: Spend good money on LIFTERS!

Just to point out that chances are the more one spends on a set of lifters usually means less valve train noise; however, I have seen a set of Woods lifters fail out of the box and Comp Cams lifters run for miles and miles and miles with nary a tick. Some days you eat the bear and some days the bear eats you.

Sounds like you have solved the problem and that is always good news.

Seems like the bear is back and grazing again... Coming home from work last week and turned into the driveway and the "knock" starts again. Parked it. This morning got up and put an oil pressure gauge on, fired it up and no knock. 40 psi at idle and higher at rpm. Let her sit and run with a fan. Not long here comes the knock. Oil pressure still about the same, maybe 38 psi. and more with rpm. The last time it was a lifter the knock would go away with rpm and higher oil pressure. Not this time, knocks no matter the RPM. Of course, these are the high dollar Woods lifters. Is it possible for an oil delivery issue to one set or even one lifter? Even with good oil pressure? Ideas?

 

[dolt]

You keep referring to the noise as a knock which points to the compensator; lifer noises are usually described as a tick, not a knock. Did you earlier post that you are running a Hayden primary chain adjustor? Those have been known to have issues. Did you shave the comp nut as suggested? Which torque procedure did you use to torque the comp nut? I still think the compensator is the offender; the nut is loose again, the Bellville spring has weakened or the Hayden unit is not functioning properly. I would replace the Hayden unit with the OEM chain adjustor; shave or shim the comp nut and torque to spec and try again. If the knock resurfaces, you can replace the Bellville spring pack.