I had copied information of a comparison test of Harley-Davidson's Mid Frame Air Deflectors and my product V-Twin Heat Deflectors. This test wasnt initially a dedicated test to compare my product with Harley-Davidson's product. But since it did end up with a comparison of the two. I felt the need to post it. I realize there's other deflector designs out there now. But no where is there any comparison of the others with what they do for the motorcycle or the rider or even compared to each other than just their looks. However, since I'm the first to ever provide such a product and have been manufacturing my deflectors since August 2002. So here's an accurate test, a comparison of the best aftermarket ( my product ) and the OEM product that has started becoming a standard issue on some Harley-Davidson motorcycle models. This testing has been performed on a Tri-Glide. The Tri-Glides generate a more constant heat than a two wheeler. An example of this is when a two wheeler is moving down the road. The heat that it generates is expelled past the rider and is left behind the bike. Where as a Tri-Glide, having a wider body attached. Causes the heat expelled from the motorcycle to make contact with the body, just past the side covers of the motorcycle and causes the heat to be deflected upwards. This body, having a the tour pac mounted to it. Causes a back draft. Which causes the heat to be carried forward till it contacts the wind of it's forward motion and heat bellowing off the engine and is carried back again. This causes is a constant bubble of heat on both sides of the Tri-Glide. This is also why the Trike was chosen for the following test. The following test/comparison is lengthy and the person that performed the testing is very formidable and if you feel the need to contact this person or any links to where I copied this information. Just ask in a PM and I'll gladly submit them to you.
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Mr. Wizard 08-13-2010 11:40 PM
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TG Modifications – The ABC’s of Removing Rider Heat A + B = C
TG Modifications – The ABC’s of Removing Rider Heat
A + B = C
A = Motor Heat, B = Exhaust Heat, C = Rider Heat
Simple and easy right, well in this case it seems to be the best way for understanding how best to reduce the heat the rider and passenger feels when riding a Harley Tri Glide. The enclosed information is certainly not the only way but it may be the most thought out and popular way of modifying a TG to save money and increase standard operating performance.
Let’s start with why the heat is transmitted to the riders of a Harley Touring Trike more so than a two wheeled bike. This simply involves aerodynamics or how the wind moves around the riders. When air moves in a straight line it is moving at a single velocity. If the same wind has to move around an object the velocity will increase. So, when air moves around an object such as a front fairing it speeds up and as the same air hits the fenders of a trike it again speeds up. So now, you start with straight line air... then deflected/faster moving air surrounding the riders... thus putting them in slower moving air which creates a bubble effect. No, this does not mean you are in a void but in slower air which is surrounded by faster moving air. This is also know an an aerodynamic bubble.
Some say it’s actually a vacuum. Although that is not possible but the properties of being in the bubble of air can and will result in similar oddities such as… When rain drops come across your windshield they will hover for a split second before dropping to earth. If you take a feather and release it near the rider it too will be stagnate, if you can find the sweet spot of the bubble, before it blows away. So how does this bubble effect have to do with heat?
Heat rises and enters the bubble then has nowhere to go. Side wind has an effect on the riders bubble. It’s the wind you must try to take advantage of especially from the waist down on a rider. From the waist up you can simply open the “bat wings” on the fairing to break the air bubble. The faster you go with the bat wings open the more you deflect air to the riders mid section thus cooling using an evaporative effect. Now we all know why riding a Harley Trike can be hotter than riding a Harley two wheel bike.
**Note**, stopping at red lights and stop signs are going to be uncomfortable. It’s an air cooled motor and a Harley. It is just what it is, hot. It will be hot until you move once again to get air across the motor and your body.
Another way is to take advantage of reducing C is to reduce A and B. So, how do we do that using the best and most economical way? We use the same techniques as a two wheeler uses to convert his beloved Harley into what sounds and runs like a Harley.
For this experiment the owner of the 2010 Harley Tri Glide was given advice and did research for making his personal choice. I did not make the choices for him nor do I sell these parts. I did, however, interject my opinion for the tuning device. I will also list these parts with the manufacturer’s name simply because it is being used for his modifications. Your choice is a very personal one and should be yours alone. Do the research, weigh the pros and cons and decide for yourself which direction you intend to go.
For this TG modification we will be using the list of parts below. Pricing will not be included as pricing may vary.
RJS Originals V-Twin Heat Deflectors
Fullsac 2009-2010 Tri Glide 103” Stage1-Performance Kit Fullsac
1.Fullsac Ceramic Coated X-Pipe
2.Arlen Ness Big Sucker Air Breather
3.Fullsac Mufflers with 1.75 Baffles and Reversible Slash Down End Caps.
4.TTS Mastertune ECM Tuner
Step 1 (Installation of RJS Originals V-Twin Heat Deflectors)
The Harley TG comes with HD deflectors. Temperatures were taken at the following locations during a 20 minute ride. The main sensor (#1) was installed 1” away from the frame wall under the seating area, just behind the rear cylinder and in the center of the mid frame deflectors with a separate fast acting temperature sensor (#2) fastened under my right thigh just above and to the outside of the knee. The ambient temperature was 91*, speed varied between stopping for street signs up to 50 MPH. The average speed cruising was 45 MPH @ 2500 RPM’s.
The average temps on sensor #1 during the average 45 MPH ride was 145* with a high reading of 178*. While sitting at a 30 second red light the temp rose to 297* before starting the ride again. Sensor #2 on my right thigh averaged 127* with a high reading of 139*. While at the 30 second stop light the high temp crept up to 151*. The average temperature fluxes were corresponding to MPH and RPM’s, the lower the RPM’s the lower the temp as expected.
After removing the HD Mid Frame Deflectors and installing the RJS Originals I ran the test again. Same ambient temperature, same route and the same red light.
The average temps on sensor #1 during the average 45 MPH ride was 122* with a high reading of 159*. While sitting at a 30 second red light the temp rose to 295* before starting the ride again. Sensor #2 on my right thigh averaged 111* with a high reading of 126*. While at the 30 second stop light the high temp crept up to 150*. Again, the average temperature fluxes were corresponding to MPH and RPM’s, the lower the RPM’s the lower the temp as expected
Sensor #1 average reduction was -23* at cruise and a high reading reduction of -19*.
Sensor #2 average reduction was -15* at cruise and a high reading reduction of -13*.
Conclusion, the RJS Originals reduced rider heat and the temperature under the open frame and seat by using the available wind more efficiently and whisking away the rear cylinder and exhaust heat from the rider.
continued,....
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Mr. Wizard 08-13-2010 11:40 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TG Modifications – The ABC’s of Removing Rider Heat A + B = C
TG Modifications – The ABC’s of Removing Rider Heat
A + B = C
A = Motor Heat, B = Exhaust Heat, C = Rider Heat
Simple and easy right, well in this case it seems to be the best way for understanding how best to reduce the heat the rider and passenger feels when riding a Harley Tri Glide. The enclosed information is certainly not the only way but it may be the most thought out and popular way of modifying a TG to save money and increase standard operating performance.
Let’s start with why the heat is transmitted to the riders of a Harley Touring Trike more so than a two wheeled bike. This simply involves aerodynamics or how the wind moves around the riders. When air moves in a straight line it is moving at a single velocity. If the same wind has to move around an object the velocity will increase. So, when air moves around an object such as a front fairing it speeds up and as the same air hits the fenders of a trike it again speeds up. So now, you start with straight line air... then deflected/faster moving air surrounding the riders... thus putting them in slower moving air which creates a bubble effect. No, this does not mean you are in a void but in slower air which is surrounded by faster moving air. This is also know an an aerodynamic bubble.
Some say it’s actually a vacuum. Although that is not possible but the properties of being in the bubble of air can and will result in similar oddities such as… When rain drops come across your windshield they will hover for a split second before dropping to earth. If you take a feather and release it near the rider it too will be stagnate, if you can find the sweet spot of the bubble, before it blows away. So how does this bubble effect have to do with heat?
Heat rises and enters the bubble then has nowhere to go. Side wind has an effect on the riders bubble. It’s the wind you must try to take advantage of especially from the waist down on a rider. From the waist up you can simply open the “bat wings” on the fairing to break the air bubble. The faster you go with the bat wings open the more you deflect air to the riders mid section thus cooling using an evaporative effect. Now we all know why riding a Harley Trike can be hotter than riding a Harley two wheel bike.
**Note**, stopping at red lights and stop signs are going to be uncomfortable. It’s an air cooled motor and a Harley. It is just what it is, hot. It will be hot until you move once again to get air across the motor and your body.
Another way is to take advantage of reducing C is to reduce A and B. So, how do we do that using the best and most economical way? We use the same techniques as a two wheeler uses to convert his beloved Harley into what sounds and runs like a Harley.
For this experiment the owner of the 2010 Harley Tri Glide was given advice and did research for making his personal choice. I did not make the choices for him nor do I sell these parts. I did, however, interject my opinion for the tuning device. I will also list these parts with the manufacturer’s name simply because it is being used for his modifications. Your choice is a very personal one and should be yours alone. Do the research, weigh the pros and cons and decide for yourself which direction you intend to go.
For this TG modification we will be using the list of parts below. Pricing will not be included as pricing may vary.
RJS Originals V-Twin Heat Deflectors
Fullsac 2009-2010 Tri Glide 103” Stage1-Performance Kit Fullsac
1.Fullsac Ceramic Coated X-Pipe
2.Arlen Ness Big Sucker Air Breather
3.Fullsac Mufflers with 1.75 Baffles and Reversible Slash Down End Caps.
4.TTS Mastertune ECM Tuner
Step 1 (Installation of RJS Originals V-Twin Heat Deflectors)
The Harley TG comes with HD deflectors. Temperatures were taken at the following locations during a 20 minute ride. The main sensor (#1) was installed 1” away from the frame wall under the seating area, just behind the rear cylinder and in the center of the mid frame deflectors with a separate fast acting temperature sensor (#2) fastened under my right thigh just above and to the outside of the knee. The ambient temperature was 91*, speed varied between stopping for street signs up to 50 MPH. The average speed cruising was 45 MPH @ 2500 RPM’s.
The average temps on sensor #1 during the average 45 MPH ride was 145* with a high reading of 178*. While sitting at a 30 second red light the temp rose to 297* before starting the ride again. Sensor #2 on my right thigh averaged 127* with a high reading of 139*. While at the 30 second stop light the high temp crept up to 151*. The average temperature fluxes were corresponding to MPH and RPM’s, the lower the RPM’s the lower the temp as expected.
After removing the HD Mid Frame Deflectors and installing the RJS Originals I ran the test again. Same ambient temperature, same route and the same red light.
The average temps on sensor #1 during the average 45 MPH ride was 122* with a high reading of 159*. While sitting at a 30 second red light the temp rose to 295* before starting the ride again. Sensor #2 on my right thigh averaged 111* with a high reading of 126*. While at the 30 second stop light the high temp crept up to 150*. Again, the average temperature fluxes were corresponding to MPH and RPM’s, the lower the RPM’s the lower the temp as expected
Sensor #1 average reduction was -23* at cruise and a high reading reduction of -19*.
Sensor #2 average reduction was -15* at cruise and a high reading reduction of -13*.
Conclusion, the RJS Originals reduced rider heat and the temperature under the open frame and seat by using the available wind more efficiently and whisking away the rear cylinder and exhaust heat from the rider.
continued,....
