Replacing Warped Brake Rotor

Discussion in 'Wheels' started by Nightowl, Aug 27, 2012.

  1. Nightowl

    Nightowl Account Removed

    My rear rotor is warped so I will be replacing it very soon. I have read all the self help tips I could find and I DO have a service manual (both HD & Clymer). I am just looking for any tips or time saving hints that might be offered. My thinking is the bolts may be loosened while the wheel is still on the bike as that would provide more stability. Also is a heat gun good enough to melt the red locate, or do I need to use a torch. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

    I am about to do the same on my bike and I see those mounting bolts stripping out easily. I have a 1000* Milwaukee heat gun that has not let me down yet. But since your going to replace the rotor and mounting bolts anyway, I would think a pinpoint torch would be ok. I would first remove the wheel. Lay it down flat but supported at the center hub from the other side. I would use a 3/8" drive hand hammer style impact tool. Once hot, I bet 1 whack with the hand impact will get them started.
    Red #271 locktite is really strong stuff but once hot, it gives up easily. Now also would be the time for replacing those sealed wheel bearings with the new model A version.

    I am curious what others will have to say.
  3. Rubyred

    Rubyred Senior Member

    I have an 07 heritage. I removed the rear wheel and placed it on a rubber pad (to protect the drive belt hub) and then used an impact driver to remove the bolts. Two raps on each screw and they were loose. I replaced the old ones with new ones (they came with the red loctite on them already). Be sure to check the orientation of the brake pads and that the spacers go back in the right position. While you have the wheel off check the wheel bearing and spokes. Good luck.
  4. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    My bikes being older it is loctite 242 that is specified for the brake rotor mount bolts but if any bolt has been on for any length of time i tend to use the hand impact driver to get it moving
    My impact driver is 1/2" sq drive but i have a step down for the 3/8" tools as i remember i got my hand impact driver as a 21st birthday present along with my first socket set my dad knew about tools so only bought good ones

  5. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Guest

    I would suggest you run a tap in the thread holes and make sure they are clean and dry before mounting the new rotor, You do have a torque wrench RIGHT?:s