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Replacing Levers

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First, everyone should have the appropriate service manual for their bike which has the proper torque values for the fasteners.

Starting on the clutch side, collapse the clutch cable adjuster located half way down the cable.

Next remove the "C" clip under the pin that holds the clutch handle in the perch. Be careful because they tend to fly when you remove them and usually get lost. After the pin is removed and with the slack in the cable, pull the clutch handle towards the end of the bar and out of the perch.
Next unhook the cable from the handle and install the new handle in reverse order. A dab of grease on the points of contact and some cable lube injected into the cable will help at this point.
Reinstall the anti rattle clip if there was one in there when reassembling the handle into the perch. Replace the greased pivot pin and then the "C" clip that holds it in place. Double check to see that the "C" clip is seated in the pin groove.
Readjust the cable adjuster to leave 1/16" to 1/8" of slack between cable and the perch when the clutch cable is pulled back away from the perch.
Don't forget to replace the rubber cover over the cable adjuster or you may get a scratch on the fender from it and don't forget to lock the lock nut on the adjuster also.
Just a tip here, some "armor all" or similar product used on the adjuster and inside of the rubber boot makes it very easy to remove and reinstall it.


Next the brake side handle. Same setup as the clutch side with the pin and the clip on most bikes. Follow the same procedure here with greasing the pin when reinstalling it.
If you are handy, position the brake lever in the position shown below when reinstalling it to prevent damage to the brake light switch and drop the greased pin in place. If you aren't handy, then place a washer like shown to keep the lever off the switch when reinstalling it.

Also see this post...

Replacing Levers - Harley Davidson Community
 
Mr. Data, The HD service instructions for the 2008 RKC lever kit says to drain the front brakes and remove the whole R/H assembly off the handle bars. I can't see why this is required. Am I missing something? It seems to me your guidelines are easier.
Thanks, MWGB
 
Mr. Data, The HD service instructions for the lever kit says to drain the front brakes and remove the whole R/H assembly off the handle bars. I can't see why this is required. Am I missing something? It seems to me your guidelines are easier.
Thanks, MWGB

I've done it on the bike on a '99 and a '03, before I had the help of insight from here. '08 might be a little different, but it you're just changing the levers, I can't see why you'd have to pull the controls and do it on the bench.
 
Mr. Data, The HD service instructions for the 2008 RKC lever kit says to drain the front brakes and remove the whole R/H assembly off the handle bars. I can't see why this is required. Am I missing something? It seems to me your guidelines are easier.
Thanks, MWGB

Not sure on that one, it may have something to do with the fly by wire setup but don't see why they would say that otherwise.
 
I did a quick check with a friend who has changed his 08 levers aand the brake lever is still the same setup. His retort was that harley probably wants you to drain the fluid before you move the master cyl. to get into an easier position to work on is because all the cover gaskets leak and that way the MOCO is not responsible for the damage to any surface the brake fluid lands on.
 
Understood but replacing the levers usually doesn't entail removing the master cylinder but I guess they want to cover themselves.
 
Depending on fairing and windshield location a lot of times its easier to loosen the master and throttle and twist them to gain easier acces
 
I finally got around to it. I didn't drain the brakes, but I did have to remove the master cylinder clamp and switch bracket in order to get the lever out. Use a tie wrap to keep the reservoir from hanging by the brake line. Or do like I did. Get the youngster to hold it while you swap the levers. It's never too soon to teach wrenchology.
Good snap ring pliers are required. All in all, pretty easy.
 
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