With the installation of new cables, there should be no need to adjust the clutch itself if the clutch was OK before hand. You need the 1/8 to 1/16 at the handle after you are done which is gotten by the adjustment in the cable itself. Really easy to do.
If your worried about alittle mess you can drain the trans fluid first so it doesn't get messy but if the bike is level only a couple ounces will leak out. The cable change requires removal of the trans side cover (6- 1/4 " bolts) If you cut the short end of the Allen wrench down just long enough to seat in the bolt head, you can remove the trans end cover without removing the exhaust by breaking them loose and threading them out by hand. Leave them in the cover and just lift the cover off and up over the exhaust. You can then see the cable end and how it attaches inside the cover. You may be able to unhook it from the ball ramp if you disconnect the upper end first from the handle with the extra slack in the cable. To do this you remove the "c" clip on the underside of the handle perch that holds the pivot pin for the handle in , remove the pivot pin and slide the handle out of the perch after you give it all the slack in the cable adjuster. You'll see the slot in the perch where you slip the cable through to remove the cable from the handle. Replace the clutch cable with the replacement fastenings and routing it the same way as it was previously and grease up the handle pivot pin when reinstalling. Screw the cable end with the "O" ring on it back into the trans end cover like the old one was. Replace the trans fluid after you get it buttoned up and adjust the cable free play as stated above.You can usually get away with reusing the trans cover gasket if the bike is fairly new and hasn't been apart before. It may be a good idea to lube the new cable when you install it being it is all apart now.
I think this covers it but a factory manual would be a great investment if you don't have one.
If your worried about alittle mess you can drain the trans fluid first so it doesn't get messy but if the bike is level only a couple ounces will leak out. The cable change requires removal of the trans side cover (6- 1/4 " bolts) If you cut the short end of the Allen wrench down just long enough to seat in the bolt head, you can remove the trans end cover without removing the exhaust by breaking them loose and threading them out by hand. Leave them in the cover and just lift the cover off and up over the exhaust. You can then see the cable end and how it attaches inside the cover. You may be able to unhook it from the ball ramp if you disconnect the upper end first from the handle with the extra slack in the cable. To do this you remove the "c" clip on the underside of the handle perch that holds the pivot pin for the handle in , remove the pivot pin and slide the handle out of the perch after you give it all the slack in the cable adjuster. You'll see the slot in the perch where you slip the cable through to remove the cable from the handle. Replace the clutch cable with the replacement fastenings and routing it the same way as it was previously and grease up the handle pivot pin when reinstalling. Screw the cable end with the "O" ring on it back into the trans end cover like the old one was. Replace the trans fluid after you get it buttoned up and adjust the cable free play as stated above.You can usually get away with reusing the trans cover gasket if the bike is fairly new and hasn't been apart before. It may be a good idea to lube the new cable when you install it being it is all apart now.
I think this covers it but a factory manual would be a great investment if you don't have one.