Rebuild or replace master cylinder

[flipper]

The method that works best for me is to put a clear plastic pipe on the end of the bleeder open the reservoir cover apply pressure to the brake pedal and then open the bleeder the pedal will go down and the fluid should flow out through the plastic pipe close the bleeder and then release the pedal
Continue with this action till the reservoir is almost empty and fill it with new fluid continue with bleeding till the new fluid comes out the plastic pipe
If the pedal is released when the bleeder is open even if there is a check valve on the plastic pipe air can be drawn past the threads of the bleeder air in the fluid is not good spongy/mushy brake feel

Brian

Well, Brian, I want to thank you so much! We followed your method and I now have rear brakes! As we went through the process, we talked about remembering seeing a spot or two or more on the concrete after one of my service appointments. My husband does his own service, but I always wanted the dealership to perform mine. I felt like they would do it right (not that my husband wouldn't!) and might see potential problems that we might miss. Well, Chunky River HD did the particular service before we noticed the concrete spotting. My husband noticed today that the rear brake bleed nipple was "boogered up" by someone (at Chunky River). We are hoping that the bleed/replace process is all that my bike will need. I rode it afterwards and it braked perfectly. I also fell in love with that bike all over again. It sounds so good!
Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your assistance with this!
:small3d028::small3d028::small3d028::small3d028:

 

[fin_676]

Keeping it simple always works most of the I man bleeding kits will allow air to be drawn back into the system and dealers will use fancy stuff
I prefer to use stainless bleed nipples and wrap some ptfe tape around the threads to seal and act as a barrier as I have had too many bleed nipples getting seized in the past

Good to hear that you are all sorted now

Brian