Hoople
Account Removed
So the kit comes with a new cam plate... maybe gear drive?
Ready for the cam change
- Thread starter kdaddy
- Start date
So the kit comes with a new cam plate... maybe gear drive?
tourbox
Senior Member
A friend converted his '04 or '05,can't remember the year,to the new upgrade support plate/oil pump/tensioner kit.The bearings still had to be pressed into the cam support plate.
He borrowed my tools & time to do it. On '07 and later the inner bearing changed diameter and outer bearings eliminated with bushing/machined area
tourbox
He borrowed my tools & time to do it. On '07 and later the inner bearing changed diameter and outer bearings eliminated with bushing/machined area
tourbox
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
To my knowledge,,,,, This kit doesn't come with the parts offered by HD for the conversion, changing out to Newer style High Volume oil pump, cam-plate(still uses bearings) and chain, then converts to the Hydraulic tensioners.
I'll stand Corrected IF this kit has all the needed parts to convert to Hydraulic.:small3d002:
I DEFINATELY would do the HD SE upgraded-conversion and be done with it.
signed....BUBBIE
hogrotten
Junior Member
Look at the camplate end of these cams, they have a larger diameter bearing surface that is designed to ride in the cam plate w/o bearings that is why the 07 camplate is required. The inboard end of the cams retains teh original size and utilize the original bearings.
The following is from the Andrews listing in J&P cycles.
Attachments
kdaddy
Active Member
Okay the conversion is all done. Started on it Thurs night and finished it Friday. The kit comes with new style cam plate with no bearings. This plate is standard on 07 and up.(hyrdaulic tensioners) It is an OEM part. The Andrews "n" grind cams have 7/8" to fit the inner bearings on older models and the new diameter outer journal to fit the new style plate. I did everything by the book, centered the pump with pins and by rotating per the 05 manual. lightly insert 2 taper pins til they touch and rotate engine while slowly snugging the pins to 35-45 inch/lbs. Then you insert two screws and torque them to 45. remove pins add two more screws and torque to 45. last you torque all in sequence to 110.
I used lots of assembly lube on everything and it all went together great. I am a perfectionist/toolmaker, and engineer sooooo.... yeah it took me about 12 hours.
Results: I tuened the back wheel with plugs out about 20 times and then bumped the starter til the oil light went out and the gauge jumped alittle.
Installed plugs and bam she fired right up. ( continued on next reply)
I used lots of assembly lube on everything and it all went together great. I am a perfectionist/toolmaker, and engineer sooooo.... yeah it took me about 12 hours.
Results: I tuened the back wheel with plugs out about 20 times and then bumped the starter til the oil light went out and the gauge jumped alittle.
Installed plugs and bam she fired right up. ( continued on next reply)
kdaddy
Active Member
Worth while notes:
I inspected the lifters and they were very very good, no roller wobble , no wear patterns, springs were as tight as the new ones i bought. I went back with my original lifters. I had bought V Thunders from comp cams, however I don't like them. The oil hole in the pushrod seat is about .030 smaller. I do not want to cut my top end volume by 30%. Thye are selling Chevy lifters, not OEM replacements in my opinion.
The new cams added a lot of torque and I ran it up to 90 on the 4 lane it still had lots of power band left. Great cam except LOTS more vibration in the bike at idle and low rpms. My mirrors blurr at the red lights. It smooths out around 2400 rpms.
The new oil pump does nothing over my old that I can tell. 32lbs @2000 rpms and 37 @3000. At running temp on 85 degree day it ran about 18 lbs at idle.
Nothing better than my original, in fact exactly the same.
All in all it went well.
Thanks for all the earlier posts on the site. I have spent hours reading them in the last month and learned enough to pull this off.
I inspected the lifters and they were very very good, no roller wobble , no wear patterns, springs were as tight as the new ones i bought. I went back with my original lifters. I had bought V Thunders from comp cams, however I don't like them. The oil hole in the pushrod seat is about .030 smaller. I do not want to cut my top end volume by 30%. Thye are selling Chevy lifters, not OEM replacements in my opinion.
The new cams added a lot of torque and I ran it up to 90 on the 4 lane it still had lots of power band left. Great cam except LOTS more vibration in the bike at idle and low rpms. My mirrors blurr at the red lights. It smooths out around 2400 rpms.
The new oil pump does nothing over my old that I can tell. 32lbs @2000 rpms and 37 @3000. At running temp on 85 degree day it ran about 18 lbs at idle.
Nothing better than my original, in fact exactly the same.
All in all it went well.
Thanks for all the earlier posts on the site. I have spent hours reading them in the last month and learned enough to pull this off.
tourbox
Senior Member
Sounds like you did a great job and are over all happy with your conversion. In reading and understanding the new oil pumps they increase your volume output and return more. Not so much pressure, but are suppose to help that in higher operating temps. This was on a SE oil pump. I have problems with the Andrews page so couldn't read on that one.
Job well done and enjoy your new torque.
tourbox
Job well done and enjoy your new torque.
tourbox
hogrotten
Junior Member
If you do a little research I believe you'll find the new style oil pumps are high VOLUME not necissarilly high Pressure. My factory 08 runs exactly where yours is so you're right on target. Once you have it tuned I believe you'll find that some of the idle vibration will calm down a little. If you have a SE race tuner you can go in and bump up your IAC steps in the 96c and 112c range a couple steps and that will smooth it out a bit.
The GRIN factor is now at a full 100 percent !!!
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear the "Kit" you bought had ALL upgrades to do the job..
The pump Not only pumps more volume but is wider on the return geroters.. More old oil getting out of the engine.
So many earlier TC's had a lot of UNKNOWN sumpiing issues and This not only pushed out oil into the air filter BUT Over Heated the engine and Held down on power. Cranks were swimming in oil:small3d002:
Glad you got it together.. Still Lots of sun left for riding.
signed....BUBBIE
The pump Not only pumps more volume but is wider on the return geroters.. More old oil getting out of the engine.
So many earlier TC's had a lot of UNKNOWN sumpiing issues and This not only pushed out oil into the air filter BUT Over Heated the engine and Held down on power. Cranks were swimming in oil:small3d002:
Glad you got it together.. Still Lots of sun left for riding.
signed....BUBBIE
kdaddy
Active Member
Update: bottomed out my slow jet and ended up with 2-1/4 turns out. Most of the vibration is gone.
I rode 200 miles today and wow what a difference in performance. Top end and cam chest is quiet as a church mouse Literally sounds like my moms old singer sewing machine.
It was 80 degrees outside and the engine temp never got over 185. I also got 47mpg. I suggest this setup to anyone.
I rode 200 miles today and wow what a difference in performance. Top end and cam chest is quiet as a church mouse Literally sounds like my moms old singer sewing machine.
It was 80 degrees outside and the engine temp never got over 185. I also got 47mpg. I suggest this setup to anyone.