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What Glider is saying is a high resistance connection will get warm or hot to the touch...this could be at any of the thick battery/starter connections and ground connections...as temperature can be used a handy troubleshooting tool after running starter no longer than 5-7 seconds prior to disturbing anything to find the root cause, if one of the connections is very hot perform preventative disconnection, scraping all contact/connections and coating with dielectric grease to minimize corrosion on reassembly might mask the symptom, the problem would be solved in either case. :bigsmiley24:

You are hitting on it... As I stated, the Ignition fuse continues to get hot and pop. Which was a precursor to blowing the System and Starter relays.

Question, two variables still exist, the start and the switch itself. Could the ignition switch itself be bad and cause this?
 
Check the solenoid contacts above the starter...Glider just posted a thread regarding this. The starter relay is module next to the fuses, painless and easy to substitute...
 
Check the solenoid contacts above the starter...Glider just posted a thread regarding this. The starter relay is module next to the fuses, painless and easy to substitute...

Well,

The starter relay was one of the two relays that burned out the other being the system relay at the onset of trouble.

The Glide is fixed will be picked up tomorrow.

In a nutshell, the battery was the start of the cascade of failures. This is a who's who of troubleshooting. The Jackson Ms Harley Electrical guru found the positive lead, the entire lead under the insulation was crispy due to the arching.


I will post the entire "damage" litany tomorrow for future fyi, but one of them was the damage to the fuse block itself, which was toast, turn signal relay etc. The starter was untouched....


But the root of the burning out headsets started with the battery. :cheers
 
I revived this post only to question whether you were happy with the quality of the imc headsets (other problems aside)

thanks
 
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