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No damper spring seat !

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Colas LeGrippa

Member
Hi, I own a FXD dyna super glide 2002. My problem was that the clutch was inoperative: with clutch lever depressed, the rear wheel was not turning freely.
I've adjusted the clutch according to the shop manual and now nothing is happening. I mean any selected speed has no effect. The engine is running but changing the speeds has no effect, like it is always on neutral. Now, I have removed the clutch and surprisingly, there is no damper srping seat. Only, friction disc "B", damper spring, and then a clutch plate and friction discs and so on. Do I need the damper spring seat ? Other problem: when I turn manually the clutch hub, the flywheel assembly moves a little back and forth, from side to side, approx 1/16 to 1/8 in.which tells me there is a misalignment somewhere, could be a bad bearing ? All of the friction discs are well under service limit so I plan re using them. I heard of Barnett clutches: are they really worth the price, I mean are they REALLY superior to stock HD ? Thanks !

Colas
 
Do you have 9 friction and 8 steel plates? If you notice 1 of the friction plates have a smaller diameter friction area then the others. It goes in first. There are 2 spring dampener plates. One is beveled,curved, it goes in a certain way. I don't recall whether the lip goes up or down. If you have a manual it will tell you.
As far as your statement " The engine is running but changing the speeds has no effect, like it is always on neutral." Does this mean when you release the clutch lever the bike doesn't move? If so then the missing spring damper could be causing the problem.
As far as Barnett clutches go they are a very good clutch especially for high perf. motors. If you are pretty much stock I would stay with the OEM unit.
tourbox
 
I bought a damper spring seat saturday and put it in. The only prob remaining is when the clutch lever is depressed, ( when transmission is in first gear ) there is still too much friction. I can hardly push the bike, compare to neutral position. The clutch is adjusted according to the specs in the workshop manual, and I can see ( I did not put back the primary cover yet ) clearly the clutch moving. Seems like pulling the clutch lever is not releasing enough pressure for the rear wheel to be totally disengaged from tranny.

Regards

Colas LeGrippa
 
The 3 balls on the ramp assym. may have become unseated when you adjusted the clutch cable.Thus not enough movement with lever to fully release clutch plates.
tourbox
 
With the transmission in gear and the clutch lever depressed, the bike is never going to roll as easily as it will when the transmission is in neutral.
 
If you jack the rear wheel off the ground, put in 1st. gear and tie the clever back to the grip you should be able to spin the rear tire. However it is still harder than neutral but the engine shouldn't turn. You could pull the plugs and rotate the tire in gear with clutch out, then with clutch in to see the difference.
tourbox
 
good, then I'll re-open the clutch cable cover in order to check the position or wear of the three balls. Anyway much work needs to be done: the oil in the primary was marble grey, like metal dust contamination. There has to be a bearing, bushnig or shaft worn out somewhere. And my garage is ice cold....
Thanks for comments.

Best regards

Colas LeGrippa
 
The primary chaincase is a rather dirty environment so dark oil is not unexpected. However, it does sound like you may have something headed south. Couple of things to pay attention to. One is smell. An odor of burnt oil generally indicates a stator on its way to failure. Second, check the alignment between the compensator sprocket and the clutch hub sprocket. A misalignment of just a few thousandths can produce a prodigious amount of little sparklies in the oil.
 
HD02FXD018.gif

Here is a view of your clutch parts
 
HD02FXD015.gif

Here is the tranny side cover with the balls and ramp release
 
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