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Need your opinion

If you are NOT gonna adjust your clutch, and you have a primary chain adjuster inspection cover, I find that much easier to remove and add the primary fluid to. Just drain out the old stuff, replace the plug and add in the specified volume through the primary chain adjuster inspection cover. Put the cover back on and torque the 4 screws to 90-120 in-lbs. Back it out!!

TQ
 
I don't know when HD made the switch but on my wife's 2002 dyna, the derby cover gasket USED to be this narrow, black gasket that fit in a groove. Now, they use a large fiber gasket (then entire size of the derby cover) with some orange "rubber" stuck to the areas where a seal needs to be made. I am saying this just in case you get a different gasket, it doesn't mean you got the wrong part.

I have reused the gasket on my ultra because it is different: like a very thick rubber band and it has tabs on it that keep it verticle in the groove of the cover. I would not reuse the thin fiber gasket. Too thin.

I would recommend the use of anti-seize as well. Nothing irritates me more than a stripped torx. I have switched to allen heads as well.
 
Good idea on repacing the torx with ss allen heads , in 2009 they went away from the inspection cover so I have no choice but to remove the derby cover . The gasket they gave me , I hope it's right , is the square narrow one that looks like a o-ring except it's square instead of round . Can anyone tell me the length and the tread size of those derby cover screws and if they are fine or coarse thread ?
 
A bit of anti sieze on the torx bit gives you a better grip for the stubborn bolts, I stumbled on to this in Minnesota of all places. When we would have to shim front wheel drive GM cars the torx bolts would strip, so we started using the anti sieze and no more problems. I like a bit behind the captive washers as well, this is where the bolts seem to hang up JMO, Capital Jack:p
 
THANKS SMITTY I won't use any anti-seeze then , I kinda figured if the manual didn't say anything about it I probably shouldn't but thought I'd check with others for opinions . It seems like a lot have trouble with 1 out of the 5 screws but maybe they aren't using the proper torx bit either which I do have , so thanks again .
 
BOWHIKER said:
THANKS SMITTY I won't use any anti-seeze then , I kinda figured if the manual didn't say anything about it I probably shouldn't but thought I'd check with others for opinions . It seems like a lot have trouble with 1 out of the 5 screws but maybe they aren't using the proper torx bit either which I do have , so thanks again .
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There is nothing wrong with antisieze used here as long as you dont get carried away with it. It will make for easier removal next time, just dont use loctite:D
 
You also won't hurt anything using the impact driver to remove the screws if they're that tight although they shouldn't be that tight. I always put never seize on the screws when I put them back in. Stops the chemical reaction between the aluminum case and the steel screws.
 
geezer said:
You also won't hurt anything using the impact driver to remove the screws if they're that tight although they shouldn't be that tight. I always put never seize on the screws when I put them back in. Stops the chemical reaction between the aluminum case and the steel screws.
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This is always a good idea, any good wrench knows antisieze not only stops threads from galling it also fills the threads in and helps to keep bolts from backing out until you want them to, it may not be in the manual but its on my bike and I dont have trouble with any parts EVER, Capital Jack:p
 
My question is have you tried to remove those screws without the impact?? I hope your not just assuming thats the way to do it?

Try it first then if they don't come loose use that as a last resort.

I just put a dab of blue lock tight on then torque to spec
 
While you could try to NOT use impact wrench, I use it because it has a big diameter grip, with plenty of leverage if you use both hands can be used, tight fitting bits with less "camming out effect." If you cannot loosen one, go to the next, and see if it breaks loose. Use the impact function only on the most stubborn one(s), and replace all if even one seizes more than it should.

Also use antisieze...two dissimilar metals especially cadmium and aluminum corrode freely by electrolysis and cause you grief. That is why you should replace them all with stainless steel or chrome if you have problems with one or more...you do not want to put "questionable" fasteners back in.
 
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