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Jump Starting a Dead Battery

I have jump started bikes a few times without removing the seat. Ground to a bolt on the dead bike and hot to the hot lead on the starter.
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Colas LeGrippa said:
Hi !
Do you guys know if a battery eliminator can only be installed on a kick start bike ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

These are pretty much a very large capacitor in a heavy duty, sealed plastic case. Think of it as a quick charge battery that
comes up to full power in 1/3 to 1 rotation of the crankshaft. Some people report that they need one more kick to get the
bike to fire and other say it's the same as with a battery. The BEC2 case is 70mm long and 48mm in diameter.

The BEC2 battery eliminator is rate a 22,000 uF and we recommend it for single and twin cylinder motorcycles. The BEC4
Magnum battery eliminator further down the page is rated at 44,000 uF and is suitable for triple and four cylinder bikes.

These only work with permanent magnet alternators because they don't hold power long enough to feed an electromagnet
alternator. This is also the reason these are for kick start only bikes.
 
Hey guys, I know this is an old thread, but I'm still compelled to write to you with a dilemma of my own.....awhile back, I was having starting issues with my bike (1986 Heritage Softail, 1340cc); it initially fired up just fine, then the solenoid started cranking again! I hit the KILL switch, the solenoid kept going! I turned off the main center console switch....solenoid is still going! It finally drained my battery. Anyway, fast forward, armed with a new battery and a new (rebuilt) solenoid; had a heck of a time, because the rubber boot (O-ring) seemed like it was preventing the solenoid from having a nice snug fit against the primary. I took the O-ring off, which seemed to help a bit, hit the starter switch, and all that happened was a whirring sound. One thing I noticed was that one of the bolts which attach the solenoid to the primary was stripped out, which was detrimental to the snug fit, so I purchased a couple of new bolts to help the cause. Another try...this time...NOTHING. So out of desperation, tried the method where you "jump" the solenoid with a screwdriver, and it started cranking! So that method would have succeeded in starting the bike. But when you try the proper method (starter button)...no dice. My friend is going to put my battery on a battery tender to insure the battery is properly charged.....other than that, I'm at a loss......very frustrated.....any advice or tips would be appreciated. Thanks, guys.

ED

I almost forgot to mention that I installed a fresh starter relay as well.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Check for voltage on the small wire on the starter solenoid when pushing your start button. It should have 12Vdc when button pushed. It gets it's 12Vdc from the starter relay.
tourbox
 
tourbox said:
Check for voltage on the small wire on the starter solenoid when pushing your start button. It should have 12Vdc when button pushed. It gets it's 12Vdc from the starter relay.
tourbox
Click to expand...

Thanks, Tourbox.....I'll check that with a voltage meter.....I hope that newly installed starter relay isn't a lemon. Assuming that the 12Vdc checks out OK, and the button still doesn't turn over the solenoid, any other ideas?
I'll keep you posted...thanks for your help.

Bassman
 
Are you are still using the round relay which is mounted under the battery or the newer type with 5 prongs. Both of which need a good ground to make them work.
tourbox
 
Hi Tourbox----

Well, I purchased a replacement solenoid, a duplicate of the one that has been on my bike for years.....now I have a new dilemma.....I tried starting the bike, it cranks and all, (she's hard to start, cold blooded beast, but I love her anyway!), but when I hit the start button again....NOTHING.....no click, no whirring, nada, zip. I looked down at my solenoid and noticed it looked kind of loose. I grabbed it and moved it GENTLY....and yes, it was very loose! I replaced the bolts that were on it, because they looked stripped out, and replaced them with two brand spanking new bolts....same problem, especially on the lower bolt. They just don't tighten up as much as they should. Is loctite a good move? Or, is there enough clearance inside the primary to meet the incoming bolts with hexnuts, to secure them from the inside? HELP! This is getting very annoying, I just wanna RIDE!

Thanks for your kind assistance.
Bassman
 
Blue loctite is OK, once you fix your stripped out holes.
The hole in the primary is stripped. It is a 1/4X20X7/8 long bolt. You would need a Heli-Coil kit for a 1/4X20 hole. You shouldn't have to remove the inner primary to drill & tap for the Heli-Coil, but you may.
tourbox
 
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