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Ignition Switch Failure??

lorne said:
i am guessing that you have a VOM to check the voltage? or do you have a digital dash? as far as a load test a light bulb from any lamp will work (not the best but will give and idea in a pinch) the higher the wattage the better.

sounds like to live somewhere where i would like to..:D
Click to expand...

I do have a volt meter.
I'll give a load test in the morning. this morning while playing around and getting further befuddled, the switch made enough contact for the headlight and auxillary lights to burn brightly, but when I hit the start switch all was lost.

I've lived in a lot of places, but I do look forward to living back in the USA.

Thanks
 
Hey Mike, xin loi to hear you are down. These guys already have you covered with some things to check.

You say you get a click when you turn the ignition (and I'm assuming you are pressing the starter switch also during this "click").

Is it just one click or several ?

Did you remove and clean all your ground clamps on the fender or wherever ? Vibration and mud can work on these after awhile.

You may in fact have a battery with some plates going bad. How old is the battery ?

I realize it's very difficult to access the starter solenoid terminal on some models (the one coming from the starter relay). I've seen folks take a scrap wire and jump pos current to said terminal to test for a bad relay. But if it's your battery it still would not start.

I wish you luck with it. Let us know how it turns out.
 
just replace the battery. I just had a case where a battery was 12.70 lighs brite but when I hit the started button nothing. replace battery and every thing is good now.
 
You can Jump FROM your Battery Positive to the starter with a Wire to make contact.... IF Battery is good IT WILL Start (IF the problem is in-between that area)... careful,,,out of gear....:s

I'm STILL betting it IS your Battery Bad...

.........IF this applies to your bike below?????

Same problem on another forum... suggested to remove the starter mechanism, cleaning Both (inner and outer) contact points with emery cloth....
They do get Burnt easily over time.

Hope it starts.

signed....BUBBIE
 
Connect your voltmeter directly across the battery at the battery posts and leave it there.

1) The meter should read at least 12.5 volts.
2) Turn on ignition key, turn on lights.
3) If meter stays above 12 volts and lights go out or are dim, ignition switch is bad.
4) If lights dim and meter falls below 10 volts, battery is bad or is not charged.

5) If lights stay bright and meter stays in 12's,,, crank the engine with starter while looking at meter. If meter falls into the 9's or 10's, battery is bad or not charged. If meter stays in 12's but lights dim, you have a wiring issue/ignition switch problem.
 
Well there you go, Hoople always lays it out in perfect sequence. His experience in troubleshooting shows in how he has each step compartmentalized. He has helped me many times to visualize the concept when I was boucing all around ohms law and confused.
 
Well, it's been a long week of isolation out here in the paddy!
Didn't want to leave anybody hanging, and just thought I would up date my matter.

The guys at Singapore HD have been very helpful in assisting with troubleshooting, and we are at a strong assumption that it is the battery!
It's an Interstate that I bought 20 months ago.

Now I have checked around and a friend in Saigon knows somebody that has a new panasonic battery. I googled it up and sure enough they make all kinds of batteries. The closest match is a 20 amp. About 3/16" longer, but equally narrow, so I thinks it will fit.:newsmile100:

Anybody ever use one of these?:newsmile100:

Making the 9.5 hour train ride tomorrow night to Saigon to check it out!
 
2 points to all who predicted the battery.
The panasonic cranked it up today after sitting for almost two weeks.
Lousy train rides train rides to and from saigon, like a roller coaster.

So I'm at 40 k miles with only consumable items being the only real problems.:)

Thanks for all the replies.
 
Hey Mike, glad to hear your Fat Boy is up and running again. I don't guess you get much selection of batteries over there judging from you taking fit measurements. When you get to a better stocked area, the AGM type batteries are so much more dependeable. They combine a strong crank with minimal discharge. Heck they will sit on a shelf (new) for up to a year without loosing substantial charge. Their glass mat-plated design helps prevents sulfation over the standard plate design. OEM Harley batteries (aka East Penn Mfg, who also ownes Deka) are all AGM type batteries for some time now.

Have you got your website updated with any of you book excerpts yet ?

What city are you currently staying in ?

If I was rich, and my wife would let me go alone, I buy a new bike and have it shipped over there and ride along with you for awhile. It might take me a week or two though to adjust to the naked feeling of riding without a weapon mounted to the vehicle. But things change. I will always remember that place. I can still smell it. I actually learned to love parts of it. And I loved most of the Vietnamese people I came to know there also. I guess you live somewhere for a 15 months you can't help but become a part of it.

Later ............. Dave
 
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