RibEye
Senior Member
I just pulled my exhaust system completely off of my '03 RKC, in the process of checking my cam chain tensioners (for the 1st time at 23K). I wanted to make sure that one more part of the scooter was installed right (the exhaust system), by having been done by me. I'm glad I did, since I discovered that I was not imagining things when I thought I was getting more than normal vibration at idle (for the last couple of weeks).
It turns out that my rear headpipe was cracked pretty good at the 'Y' with the front headpipe, down on the right side. In continuing to remove heatshields under the seat, I found that the bracket tab was broken, which ties the rear headpipe to the top of the starter.
This was not the first time with this bike, as I found that the headpipe had cracked up near the rear head, and the bracket tab had broken once before, and both had been welded (previous owner, likely repaired by dealer, since that was where he had all his work done). The welding took out whatever temper the bracket tab had, and when it broke this time, it broke right beside the weld. Rigging a $10 part costing me $250
... the weld on the headpipe did hold however.
I had found the nut tying the bracket tab to the starter working loose a couple of times in the last 1.5 years, so vibration is likely a big issue in this area.
All of that being said, I have found that this is not an uncommon problem (cracking rear headpipes and bracket tabs). I have ordered a new headpipe, but it was pretty expensive ($230 from the dealer, since tehMOCO is killing Chicago HD's inet business). I'm thinking that if it happens again, I will go with V&H or Bassani true duals instead, in an attempt to relieve some potential for further repeats. Is there any justification of my theory out there (getting rid of the 'Y' reducing the potential for headpipe cracking)? I'm leaning toward Bassani Power Curves, in an attempt to retain as much low end torque as possible.
When I reinstall the exhaust system, I intend to make sure all components are positioned for neutral stress, before tightening it all down. This will be an attempt to minimize the potential for vibration/stress cracking in the future. But, I am a bit dubious and concerned about success with this theory.
What ideas do these thoughts trigger from you guys?
By the way, on a positive note, with 23K on the engine, my tensioner feet had only worn about .030, inner and outer the same. The previous owner had the dealer keep Syn3 in all 3 holes for the 10K miles he owned the scoot, and I have kept M1 VTwin 20-50 in there for the 13K I have put on.
Enjoy,
Rich P
It turns out that my rear headpipe was cracked pretty good at the 'Y' with the front headpipe, down on the right side. In continuing to remove heatshields under the seat, I found that the bracket tab was broken, which ties the rear headpipe to the top of the starter.
This was not the first time with this bike, as I found that the headpipe had cracked up near the rear head, and the bracket tab had broken once before, and both had been welded (previous owner, likely repaired by dealer, since that was where he had all his work done). The welding took out whatever temper the bracket tab had, and when it broke this time, it broke right beside the weld. Rigging a $10 part costing me $250
... the weld on the headpipe did hold however.I had found the nut tying the bracket tab to the starter working loose a couple of times in the last 1.5 years, so vibration is likely a big issue in this area.
All of that being said, I have found that this is not an uncommon problem (cracking rear headpipes and bracket tabs). I have ordered a new headpipe, but it was pretty expensive ($230 from the dealer, since tehMOCO is killing Chicago HD's inet business). I'm thinking that if it happens again, I will go with V&H or Bassani true duals instead, in an attempt to relieve some potential for further repeats. Is there any justification of my theory out there (getting rid of the 'Y' reducing the potential for headpipe cracking)? I'm leaning toward Bassani Power Curves, in an attempt to retain as much low end torque as possible.
When I reinstall the exhaust system, I intend to make sure all components are positioned for neutral stress, before tightening it all down. This will be an attempt to minimize the potential for vibration/stress cracking in the future. But, I am a bit dubious and concerned about success with this theory.
What ideas do these thoughts trigger from you guys?
By the way, on a positive note, with 23K on the engine, my tensioner feet had only worn about .030, inner and outer the same. The previous owner had the dealer keep Syn3 in all 3 holes for the 10K miles he owned the scoot, and I have kept M1 VTwin 20-50 in there for the 13K I have put on.
Enjoy,
Rich P
