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Handle bar help.

Go for it. Not hard at all. I have done it a few times but I can have the stock set off the bike in 30 minutes:) You will be fine. Read everything before you start.
 
try and get pre-molded wireing kit. don't know if they make it .this will eliminate cutting and spliceing wires. thats the biggest hassle. oh! some suggest replaceing the reser bushings while your at it. dealer had mine on the wall.
 
what you want is wireing extension (extensions of your existing wireing harness. . also some have replaced the risers bushing with polyurathayne . dealer had them on the wall. from drag specialities. i'm doing 10 " paul yippes bagger bars. at times it would be nice to have 4 hands. i positioned my tri-glide under a truss in the shop so i could use a string to hold the inner fairing up.
 
3 rd time i've tryed to post here.
a 2 foot 3/8 extension and a 2' 1/4" extension. is very helpful
cut off a 1/4 about 2" long and glue it in a 1/4" socket.
& 3/16 (metric) allen wrench cut off about 1 inch long.
1/4 is for the handle bar reser allen head bolts.
when you remove the radiothas the 3/16 a/w.
also go to autozone and buy torax wrench set thats made out of S2
steel. they last much longer than the sears ones i have.
park your bike under a truss in the garages so you can tie a string over the truss which will hold the inner fairing up as you remove riser bolts.
you need a 5/32 (M) allen wrench T20 &T25 torex (metric) wrenches.

if you are going to replace the reser bushings with poly bushings.take out the
left hand riser mounting bolt first. 3/4" 6 point shallow socket. ( you reach from the front of bike .with the wheel full right turn position.because when you go full left turn on wheel & remove the ign. switch
you can't access the riser bolts. all for now as i'm rA&r my bars too today.
its not hard just slow & steady.
 
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