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Gears vs Cam Chain

After reading your last post Dolt. It brings up a question that has been in the back of my mind. Can one upgrade a pre-07 bike to the new hydraulic setup and not have to use the "conversion" cams? Sounds like what your last post stated, the answer is yes. I have been wanting to try a set of Headquarters 0034's. They do not come in the "conversion" style. Gear driven or standard.
 
After reading your last post Dolt. It brings up a question that has been in the back of my mind. Can one upgrade a pre-07 bike to the new hydraulic setup and not have to use the "conversion" cams? Sounds like what your last post stated, the answer is yes. I have been wanting to try a set of Headquarters 0034's. They do not come in the "conversion" style. Gear driven or standard.

Yes. PN25284-11 is the "hybrid" upgrade kit. Billet plate, upgraded oil pump, hydraulic tensioners, front roller chain and inner Morse chain. The reason the inner chain doesn't change is so that OEM cams can be used. The kit retails for $429 but an online discount price is 20% less.
 
Yes. PN25284-11 is the "hybrid" upgrade kit. Billet plate, upgraded oil pump, hydraulic tensioners, front roller chain and inner Morse chain. The reason the inner chain doesn't change is so that OEM cams can be used. The kit retails for $429 but an online discount price is 20% less.

Thanks!
 
I put gear drive on my 04 Ultra but that was because my stock tensioners were shot at 25K miles. If mine lasted as long as yours, I would just put stock back in and save the $$ for something else.

I put the gear drives in myself. My rounnout was minimal. They whine a little when warming up but then I don't even think about them. Supposedly you get an extra hp or two. I put in an Andrews 26 cam while I was there. Since I had to get a gear drive cam anyway.
 
I put gear drive on my 04 Ultra but that was because my stock tensioners were shot at 25K miles. If mine lasted as long as yours, I would just put stock back in and save the $$ for something else.

I put the gear drives in myself. My rounnout was minimal. They whine a little when warming up but then I don't even think about them. Supposedly you get an extra hp or two. I put in an Andrews 26 cam while I was there. Since I had to get a gear drive cam anyway.
How do you like that setup? Did you notice a bit more pull?

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
IMO, gear drive would be the best set up like ALL the older H D engines had. Hard to beat the reliability of on time valve timing. The EPA noise police convinced Harley to go to the SILENT chain set up they now use, IMO a big win for HD but the aftermarket has stepped up with the answer. If I were to build a TC motor after the stock set up went south it would be gear Drive small price noise wise IMO to pay for better valve timing JMO
 
How do you like that setup? Did you notice a bit more pull?

Enjoy,
Rich P
Great question. I put in gear drives on the advice of 2 indys and 2 dealers. My run out was well in spec. At 12000 miles my shoes were not worn that bad, but there was a very clear crack in the front one. 20,000 miles later still running strong. Now to your question about pull. Yes it is not like there is an awesome increase in power, but a very noticable increase in (as you say) pull. And I like the "camming" sound.
 
Gear drive is the most dependable cam drive setup available, until the crank goes south and when that happens, big bucks and long down time are around the corner. I don't have any issues with gear driven cams up through the 2006 model year but a crank supplier and tolerance for warranty both changed in 2007 would prevent me from going gear drive on the later models. Cranks are coming from the factory with .005"-.006" runout which is within spec; prior to 2007, that spec was .003". Gear drives will not tolerate much more than .003", so running gear driven cams in a 2007 or later model can be risky. The hydro tensioner/roller chain setup is much more accomodating and the way I go on later models; but that's JMHO.
 
Here in Tucson, we are just entering riding season. I hate to take mine down, just to measure run-out, then be down until whichever route my runout dictates arrives in my mailbox. My tensioners looked great at 20K. I am approaching 30K, so it is time to look again. Tensioner condition will dictate whether I need to go down now, or I can continue to hold myself in suspense. Mine is an '03 RKC. I am told that cranks from that time are pretty rock solid. I am just not comfortable just ordering the gear drive, without measuring runout. Frustrating stuff. Let's see what I see in the cam chest. In any case, I think I want to go either 21 or 26 Andrews cams. That was the jist of my question on pull. I'm leaning toward the 21, since I tend to tour, and that at lower rpms and 2-up.

Thinking out loud...

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Question for the gurus.If the run out for pre/post '07 cranks is more than the .003 that supposedly would take out your oil pump first along with other components in the nose cone. Wouldn't it also take out the same components with chain drive cams if your run out exceeds the factory specs. even though they allow up to .006 after '07? From what I understand you can send your crank off for welding & truing for a long term fix. Don't know the cost of that though. What are the chances of the factory crank being that far out?
tourbox
 
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