Fuel Filter Replacement

[glider.]

Posted by "USMCCWO5" on his 07 RKC...

The kit doesn't come with canopy gasket or canopy screws, both items should be replaced when changing the filter. The kit comes with convoluted hose, two clamps, o-ring for regulator to filter, and of course the filter itself.

The pump and sender unit has a hinged joint to assist removal. After removing 10 canopy screws, lift rear of canopy and cut/remove hose clamp and fuel line (don't drop pieces in the tank).

The joint has a detent, use a screwdriver (and flashlight) to push down on the lower half of the assembly, that will allow the joint to rotate and then you can remove the assembly.

Don't bend the fuel level sender arm & float or you may have incorrect fue level readings upon reassembly.

Follow service manual instructions for filter replacement.

 

[Retrop]

The service manual suggests using a cam lock tool/device to remove the fuel plate prior to removing the fuel pump assembly. Is their a workaround for buying that specialty tool? Can it be removed any other way besides buying the cam lock tool?

 

[Porter]

I just completed the fuel filter change this weekend. Just to add to the stuff you will need that is not included in the kit: get an extra "crimp on" hose clamp (or 2). Two come with the kit so that you can replace hose from the pump to the filter, but you have to cut a clamp on the supply hose (figure 4-1, item #7) to remove assembly. That one needs to be replaced on reassembly and it stinks to not have one little clamp that you have to make another trip to the store for...

I did not have or use the "hose clamp pliers". I used a pair of wire cutters to crimp/pinch the band clamps it it worked fine. You don't need much squeezing to make a snug fit.

Chopper had a post somehere else that describe this as "the first time is the worst" for figuring out how to push the fuel pump down to let it cam out of the way. Boy was that correct. It is not hard to do, just frustrating. There were suggestions to use a long screwdriver and a flash light to reach into the tank, but I poked around for a half hour to no avail. This is bad because when your are frustrated you keep looking closer and closer in the tank which means you breath more and more gasoline vapor, trying to see where the "hinge" is. It was a tight fit to get my hand in the hole but that was the only way I could figure it out. One tip for "first timers" that may help, follow the tubing that goes from the filter to the pump (item 4 in figure 4-1 of the manual). It will lead your fingers to the top of the pump. I couldn't really see anything with a flash light and the center "channel/hump" that divides the tank in half blocks most of your view anyway.

Also, it appeared to me that when I would cut the supply tubing clamp (#7) that it was going to be a real tough time reconnecting the tubing. The tubing appeared to not have enough slack. Don't worry, there is plenty of slack for re-installation.

 

[fabrozor]

i just made the error.
I had the 2 provided clamps... and as you said, one third was missing.
I did not had the patience to wait to buy a third.
I installed the 2 clamps where i thought it was the most needed.
On the third place (filter to pump, filter side) i put a cheap retainer.
Do you think that will do the job ?
Here is the photo.

 

[TQuentin1]

On the third place (filter to pump, filter side) i put a cheap retainer.
Do you think that will do the job ?
Here is the photo.

Probably. The tubing is a pretty tight fit to start with. I went through this exercise a number of times with the replacement tubing getting new pinholes worn in it within a very short period - two of the long hoses, and one of the short ones!! I finally gave up the last time around, and replace both convoluted tubing pieces with some high pressure reinforced black fuel injector hose from the auto-parts store. Done!! And I just used worm clamps.

TQ

 

[fourstar]

When reinstalling the pump/filter/plate assembly into the tank: Does the pump bottom out in the tank before the plate is seated on the top? Mine seems to hold the plate up about 3/8". I have to put hand pressure onto the plate to get it into position to install the screws.
After I got all of the screws in, I had leaks. I have disassembled it and am going to try again tomorrow, but I have to get new screws again because the seals appear damaged. (I used new screws on the last install as well.) I'm hoping I just over torqued things and distorted the gasket.

 

[glider.]

The pump itself shouldn't contact the tank.

 

[fourstar]

I meant the rubber foot at the base of the pump contacting the bottom of the tank. Anyway, I got 10 more sealing screws and reinstalled the plate. I followed the manual instructions to the letter, torquing the sealing screws to 20 inch pounds. Everything is fine until I install the console and torque it to 80-100" pounds. Then I get fuel leaks but its difficult to tell exactly where it is coming from. A thin film of fuel runs out of the base of the console and down the left side of the tank. I'm sure it has to do with the effect of the console bolt pulling up on the tank plate and distorting the seal somehow, but I'm not sure how much to tighten the screws before it becomes counter productive.
Anyone got and idears?

 

[fourstar]

Top plate fuel leak

Just in case anyone else ever runs in to this, it turns out the plate and screws were not what was leaking. The leak was coming around the fuel pump connector module, the electrical connector at the front of the fuel plate. When installing the console, I would indiscriminately stuff the wiring under the front of the console and cinch it down. One or more of the wiring connectors to the console was making contact with the electrical module and putting pressure on the forward portion of it, which would tip it and cause fuel to leak around the o-ring at the base. I fixed it by being more careful on the console install.

 

[Hoople]

Re: Top plate fuel leak

Just in case anyone else ever runs in to this, it turns out the plate and screws were not what was leaking. .

I noted you said you used New screws during re-assembly. Sure enough the service manual says to be sure to use NEW screws.

What is special about using new screws? I can see a new gasket but why the screws? Can't use sealant around threads?
Anyone know?