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Front Brake adjustment

scrinch

Active Member
I have the service manual but can't seem to find any adjustment for the front brake lever. I checked the fluid and is OK but I have to get into the lever about 2/3 of the way before I get any front brake.
 
Have you bled your brakes?What you're describing sounds exactly like air in your hydraulic system.And another thing;are you still running the original brake lines?Over time,these lose their effectiveness.

Maybe you could install new braided brake lines-these dont 'swell out' when you put pressure through the system,thus losing applied pressure and feel.And of course,new brake fluid and a good bleeding or purging.
Your brakes probably work harder than most with that extra weight.:D
 
Not sure if this bike has front brakes.

Check the pad and rotors for excessive wear.
When I had my front rotors and pads replaced I almost couldnt grab the brake lever.
 
I have the service manual but can't seem to find any adjustment for the front brake lever. I checked the fluid and is OK but I have to get into the lever about 2/3 of the way before I get any front brake.

Bleed the brakes. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT FLUID TYPE!!!!!!!!!
 
I have the service manual but can't seem to find any adjustment for the front brake lever. I checked the fluid and is OK but I have to get into the lever about 2/3 of the way before I get any front brake.

On the front brakes, I like putting the fluid in from the caliper bleeders. I have an '03 UC with twins on the front. Here is what I do:
  • Open the reservoir and make sure it is full (refer to manual for correct fluid).
  • Put a clear plastic tubing on each of the bleeder valves and submerge in a clear bottle with break fluid over the ends of the tubing.
  • Make sure your bottle is well below the bleeder valves (like on the ground).
  • Open up each bleeder one at a time and allow the fluid to gravity feed until the tubing is full.
  • Watch for air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.
  • Keep the reservoir full as the fluid gravity drains until the new fluid has completely replaced the old stuff in both sides tubing.
  • Open both bleeders and drain reservoir until ALMOST empty, but leave fluid just above port in bottom.
  • Close both bleeders.
  • Get a large syringe full of brake fluid and carefully plug the end of the tubing on it - BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY AIR IN THE TUBING.
  • Open that bleeder and "inject" fluid until the reservoir is just under half full.
  • Close the bleeder and repeat on the other side.
  • Make sure both bleeder valves are snug, remove the tubing and put on the dust caps.
  • Top off the reservoir and put the top back on it.
DONE!!

TQ
 
Glider had a great idea in the help section for getting rid of trapped air in the brakes.

Here is the link :
Brake Bleeding Tips - Harley Davidson Community

I see TQuentin1 tip was also placed in the self help.
Here is the link :
Bleeding Brakes - Harley Davidson Community
This is also an excellent tip.

I am far from being an expert , but if the brake bleeding was done correctly
and the pads and rotors dont have excessive wear and there is still to much brake travel , it time for a rebuild kit
 
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