exhaust flange, gaskets and nuts

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by chase1, Dec 10, 2010.

  1. chase1

    chase1 Member

    I ride a 2000 rd king fuel injected. Recently have been hearing a chirp/chchch sound coming from the front of the motor while riding. I checked once and discovered that the nuts on the stud mounts had vibrated a little loose, tightened them up and almost all the noise disappeared. This has happened more than once. So do I

    1. Loosen the nuts up put on loctite and re tighten?,

    2. Replace the gasket and get the rust off of the stud mounts? and

    3. Since I can't find it anywhere, what would be the torque on those nuts?

    Any suggestions and thank you in advance for all the good information I know I will find and receive on the forum
  2. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

    See above!! And you might try using a lock nut (double up with a second nut) on each side.


    HOLY DIVER Junior Member

    TQ has u covered. i always use anti-seize not much just a dab. those studs/nuts get very very hot and any time a stud and nut get that hot its subject to Gaul and seize up
  4. LEOG

    LEOG Member

    I did a oil pump and tensioner change last winter. I used stock gaskets and installed the exhaust per the shop manual except I torqued everything in very small increments and rechecked for a couple of days after I reached max. torque. After I fired her up for the first time I torqued them up again and then after another heat and cooling cycle torqued them again. Used just a touch of never seez. No leaks at all. Take your time, don't hurry is the best advise I can give. Good luck

    Keep the dirty side down Ride Safe

  5. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    I always put a wee bit of copper grease on the studs and double nut them to stop them from coming loose
    Copper grease is a high temperature anti seize
    Having previously had a exhaust stud snap because the nut had rusted to the stud and had to drill out the stud and re thread the head for a new stud is not a job i would like to do again so a wee bit of extra time and care keeps everything good (stud replacement was on a 25 year old Honda that i got as a box of bits)

  6. fisherman124

    fisherman124 Active Member

    i just did mine the dealer gave me a new style nut u dont use a lock washer on says they dont back off plus put a new gaket in there since it happened a couple of times already jmo
  7. Iceman24

    Iceman24 Well-Known Member

    Yes, double-nut will keep them tight & should torque them in sequence:

    - Tighten top nut/front cyl 9-18 in-lb
    - Tighten bottom nut of front cyl to 100-120 in-lb
    - Tighten top nut of front cyl 100-120 in-lb

    - Tighten bottom nut/rear cyl 9-18 in-lb
    - Tighten top nut of rear cyl to 100-120 in-lb
    - Tighten bottom nut of rear cyl 100-120 in-lb

    Re-torque all after 50-miles riding & should be good...
  8. Mad Dog Jim

    Mad Dog Jim Banned

    Doing mine soon (replacing stock exauhst with new V&H. I am thinking of tracking down a couple aircraft nuts with holes for safety wire... pretty sure that will keep things in place.
  9. Crocker

    Crocker Active Member

    Bull dog J , I use the aircraft spec nuts have them on all my bikes excellent nuts ,if your looking for them you can purchase thm from RB Racing exhaust ,they also sell billet flanged exhaust gaskets, Also as Fin676 recomended copper type anti seize or if you can not find it in your local area ,buy a bottle of Malox yes the stuff for your tummy , works just as good as the copper antisieze, it wont burn and has the same excellent quality to keep from rusting. old engine builder trick.