electrical problem 89 FXRs 1340
- Thread starter ukbertie
- Start date
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Drill the heads off, they the cover will fall off in your hand, they are a special rivet
With the key on run switch on you should have power in the wires from the pick up assembly
Does your bike have a breaker under the gas tank console? Seems to me some FXR models did
With the key on run switch on you should have power in the wires from the pick up assembly
Does your bike have a breaker under the gas tank console? Seems to me some FXR models did
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J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Have a look here
First thing I would do is check to make sure I have power and a good ground on the ignition module.
The easiest way to do that is with a 12VDC meter. Place the positive lead (RED) on the white wire at the coil. Place the negative lead (BLACK) on the aluminum plate of the ignition module. Then turn the ignition switch on and it should read 12Volts. If it does then the power and ground it good. If it doesn't then move the negative (BLACK) lead to engine case or frame ground. If still no 12Volts the +12V feed from the ignition switch is not happening. If there is +12V when you move the negative lead to the engine case or frame, then the ignition module is not grounding properly. Clean all the contact surfaces.
Next test if 12v and ground are good.
Remove the mounting screws from the ignition module and tilt it out. With a spark plug attached to the coil and the threads of the spark plug grounded to the engine case, hold the ignition module so it if grounded. Turn the ignition switch on and place the rotor magnet next to the ignition module pickup sensor. Move the rotor and magnet around in front of the sensor and look for spark at the spark plug. Note it should spark when the magnet moved across the face of the sensor.
If the above test does not produce spark the ignition module needs to be tested next. Disconnect the blue wire from the coil and connect the 12V meter negative lead to the blue wire coming from the ignition module. Connect the positive lead of the meter to the white wire/+12V wire. Then while holding the ignition module to ground, move the rotor magnet in front of the sensor. The expected results are as follows. With no magnet in front of the sensor the meter should read 12V and when the magnet is placed in front of the sensor the voltage should drop to 0V. Once the magnet is move from in front of the sensor the meter should read 12V again. If this happens, the ignition module should be fine indicating the coil is most likely the problem. 99% sure the coil.
First thing I would do is check to make sure I have power and a good ground on the ignition module.
The easiest way to do that is with a 12VDC meter. Place the positive lead (RED) on the white wire at the coil. Place the negative lead (BLACK) on the aluminum plate of the ignition module. Then turn the ignition switch on and it should read 12Volts. If it does then the power and ground it good. If it doesn't then move the negative (BLACK) lead to engine case or frame ground. If still no 12Volts the +12V feed from the ignition switch is not happening. If there is +12V when you move the negative lead to the engine case or frame, then the ignition module is not grounding properly. Clean all the contact surfaces.
Next test if 12v and ground are good.
Remove the mounting screws from the ignition module and tilt it out. With a spark plug attached to the coil and the threads of the spark plug grounded to the engine case, hold the ignition module so it if grounded. Turn the ignition switch on and place the rotor magnet next to the ignition module pickup sensor. Move the rotor and magnet around in front of the sensor and look for spark at the spark plug. Note it should spark when the magnet moved across the face of the sensor.
If the above test does not produce spark the ignition module needs to be tested next. Disconnect the blue wire from the coil and connect the 12V meter negative lead to the blue wire coming from the ignition module. Connect the positive lead of the meter to the white wire/+12V wire. Then while holding the ignition module to ground, move the rotor magnet in front of the sensor. The expected results are as follows. With no magnet in front of the sensor the meter should read 12V and when the magnet is placed in front of the sensor the voltage should drop to 0V. Once the magnet is move from in front of the sensor the meter should read 12V again. If this happens, the ignition module should be fine indicating the coil is most likely the problem. 99% sure the coil.
tourbox
Senior Member
You may need to disconnect the 2 white wires on the top of the coil. If the rotor cup is in the closed position,such as points, then the battery is grounded and you won't see 12VDC. 1 white wire is from your Run/Kill switch and the other is from the Electronic Ign. Module. The 12VDC comes from the Run/Kill switch wire. See attached.
tourbox
If by chance you have an After Market switch harness on then it can turn the engine over with the Run/Kill switch bad. I put one on my '73 and could turn the starter over whether the Run/Kill was On or Off. In the Off position there was no battery to the coil so it wouldn't start but would turn the engine over. Easy test is to turn Run/kill to off, hit the start button and see if engine turns over.
Needless to say I rewired that part.
tourbox
tourbox
If by chance you have an After Market switch harness on then it can turn the engine over with the Run/Kill switch bad. I put one on my '73 and could turn the starter over whether the Run/Kill was On or Off. In the Off position there was no battery to the coil so it wouldn't start but would turn the engine over. Easy test is to turn Run/kill to off, hit the start button and see if engine turns over.
Needless to say I rewired that part.
tourbox
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There should be a procedure in the manual that shows how to test the ignition system to ensure it outputs to the coil to create spark. This test bypasses the need to crank the motor. It involve the simulating the cam position sensor being activated. I don't have the procedure handy, but I can dig it up. This based doing the test on my 96 Dyna, But the test should be the same for all 1340 factory, hall effect sensor ignitions of that era. The location of the connectors you need to access may be different.
Give what Jack posted a shot. It you don't have good results, I'll post the portion of the manual with the test.
Give what Jack posted a shot. It you don't have good results, I'll post the portion of the manual with the test.