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Dynojet has made changes to the Power Commander V

I now have a 2018 Harley Davidson (tour) FLHTKL. I am looking in to changing or is it an upgrade to my system now.I have on it the Commander V along with the Auto Tune with the 188mm exhaust O2 sensors. My Bike has upgrades as listed.

(1) Power Commander V with Auto Tune.
(2) Arlen Ness Super Sucker air filter system.
(3) Stock header pipe that have been cleaned out of the cat system driller out to 18mm for the installing of the exhaust O2 sensors that ,I got from Dynojet.
(4) Tab performance slip-on with zombies baffles.
(5) Screaming Eagle Power Camshaft SE8-462 part # 9250075

Can I just buy the Dynojet Power Vision and pull the Power Commander V out ? The connect my auto Tune to it . Also I have been told bye Dynojet that now on my model and year they now have upgraded their system to also now read PCV-PTI with the Bosch mass air sensor . Will the new power Vision also have this feature ? I understand there is no more need for a computer . My last problem was the fuel economy fell off like 50 mpg per tank full. Then it started having problem’s idling then when I would come to a stop it would die. When I emailed Dynojet they told me to change my map. This made this worst as because all the new maps DO NOT FILL in the idling scale because the new Map Sensor. So it took a week of calling and a list of emails longer than your arm to find out the problem. Now it’s running right again .I don’t want this to happen on a trip because the on board file get corrupted and I am stuck some where. Also now I am being told bye some Tuners to turn off the Auto Tuner while in my area. My question what if I go above sea level like in to the mountains.

So my question to y’all will this be an upgrade ? Can I just buy the Power Vision and what will that cost be ? Your Mapping service is available for a map that will fit my bike and the upgrades it has now / Does the NEW Power Vision now monitor the map air PCV-PTI via the Bosch sensor ? Will you be able or Dynajet go on like and link up right in to my system and help the Auto Tuner get started. Because now if you down load a map from Dynojet with a older Power Commander V the Auto Tuner WILL NOT WORK . So I didn’t find out about this until much later after buying my system because I first just had the Power Commander V. Then I built the bike up after money came in. Then I had to have a Auto Tuner .So now I am wasting money to still upgrade my onboard tuner and Not on head work and then maybe a big bore kit . So I am asking for your service and what can you do to help me out .
This is an old thread but since I spent a good chunk of the past 9 months looking for a fuel commander I thought I'd post it for the benefit of others.

I finally decided to do a stage one on my 2010 FXSTC purchased new. Why I waited so long blows my mind. So after doing a lot of research I decided to go with the original Dynojet power commander. It's been around forever, it's plug and play and pretty much every Tuner on the planet is set up to dynotune on it. So just as I'm ready to pull the trigger Dynojet discontinues it and triples the price of the few remaining units still out there. They replace it with a bluetooth device that has a LOT of problems and is clearly not ready for prime time. And then roll out a replacement for that model that seems even less supportable. Back to square one.

I didn't want to do major surgery of wiring connectors which eliminated a few products and I definitely did not want to replace the stock ECM. So that got me to the V&H FP product.

I didn't like the FP4 for a variety of reasons and as it turned out, my bike was the last to NOT have a CAN bus so that eliminated the FP4 from consideration. The FP3 was at end of life and I was lucky to find one that was still selling at a reasonable price. Installation was a snap and I rode the bike, still bone stock for a few hundred miles and the engine seemed peppier, got good mileage and ran pretty well.

Did the stage one and downloaded a map for my configuration and again, ran pretty well right out of the gate. Some small issues, some that I am still wrestling with but overall I'm happy with the FP3 performance.

V&H support, contrary to what I had heard, has so for been pretty lousy. I did find a guy there who was helpful but I'd have to rate V&H support as "very disappointing". A side fact is that pretty much every youtube out there including FPx vendors sing the praises of autotune. But everyone and I mean EVERYONE I've talked to at V&H says to NOT do an autotune. The reasons the give for this defy logic and their own marketing hype but I have so far resisted all urges to do an autotune. I may do so when I do a cam upgrade or have it professionally dyno tuned but that's a problem for another day.

The idle is still a tad rough so I'm guessing a minor tweak to the closed throttle, low rpm cell(s) may be needed. But that's mostly in play before the engine reaches full operating temp so I'm reluctant to fool with it.

Anyone looking for a power commander may find the research task frustrating as I did. There really is no longer a gold standard product in that application. Could be different with M8s. I know zip about them. But the process was a real challenge for my model year.

I hope this helps.
I will probably get some push back on this one but tuning is one thing that I think should be left to a professional in order to maximize the benefit of performance upgrades. I don't bother with purchasing hardware/ software but am fortunate to live near two of the best tuners in Texas. Both use the Powervision, sell a "license" to the owner, tunes the bike and provides a thumb drive of the tune to the owner for an future upgrades. Total cost for the license and the tune can run $400-$500. A true dyno tune requires many pulls on the dyno and is very time consuming. So, you can see the difference in DIY "auto tune" , etc. which will never replicate a dyno tune peformed by a competent tuner which is not a tuner that loads a map and does a couple of "fine tune" adjustments; that's not a tune.:rolleyes:
No pushback here sir... just my 2 cents worth FWIW. Prior to ~ 2000 tuning was pretty much only done manually. Jetting the carb(s) and adjusting the timing until the engine ran right. Mostly trial and error. The only tuning "tools" were a strobe light, looking at the spark plugs and just assessing how the bike ran. I have to say that I was very later to this party since I was never a particular fan of fuel injection or black box ECUs. I prefer as much control and as much adjustability as possible in my engines. I'm also incredibly cheap...errrr... thrifty. I never pay anyone to do something I can probably do myself. And if it turns out I botch the job it's a learning experience for me.

Getting into the nuts and bolts of fuel injection has been very educational for me and even sort of fun. Once you understand this stuff it's actually easy to get a FI motor dialed in scientifically versus hit and miss, which I like. Of course this new technology has a lot more "stuff" installed, any one of which can complicate troubleshooting if it fails/sticks/whatever. Temp sensors, IAC/MAF and so on. So you really need to know what you are doing with FI versus doing it seat of the pants pre-TC.

My experience with power commanders, as limited as it's been so far, indicates that if you get things set up reasonably close the bike will run fine. This is assuming just a stage one upgrade. V&H didn't even have a map for my air filter OR pipes! Yet I got it dialed in with minimal outside help. All bets are off if you start fooling with cams, pistons and so on. But guys who are that deep inside the engine are probably experts at tuning... or maybe not? So you could be 100% about needing a professional tuner on an engine that's gone to stage two. When I upgrade my cam chest I may have more to say on that subject after I learn more.

When I did my stage one I resisted all urges to run the autotune on the advice of V&H support. However, every person with a youtune channel bloviates about how great autotune is. I've researched this topic extensively and my take is that support is right. Leave autotune alone. If the engine isn't running right it's probably not the tune. I'll qualify that a bit by saying I would be much more confident about the above statement if wide band O2 sensors are in play. So far no problems with my narrow band O2 sensors but I am not doing anything extreme on my engine. For a stage two upgrade I'm thinking having wide band O2 sensors is a must.

Assuming a stock top end and cam, once you get the long term fuel trims set to a reasonable value the ECU will take care of the fine tuning. The stock ECU is a very busy little fellow and the more I read about what's going on inside that little black box the more I understand what's happening under the covers. So far, any performance issue I've had since installing a power commander had zip to do with the tune. It was the result of something needing to be cleaned or serviced.

I'll just add that I am far from an expert in this area if it isn't already obvious. Still learning and it's actually turning into a fascinating and complicated topic.

As to professional tuners: I'm incredibly cheap, right? I don't have $1,000 to hand to a dealership or some arrogant tuner so that he can burn up a tank of gas for 8 hours while he diddles with cell settings. But the map, while static, is not what's controlling the tune. The ECU is. The fact is, unless you have done MAJOR performance work on an engine and are competing with a bunch of guys who are also milking every last HP out of their mills, doing a professional tune is mostly a waste of money done mostly for bragging rights. Personally, I could care less what my HP/torque numbers look like. So long as my bike has a lot of giddyup, I'm a happy guy.

I see lots of youtube videos posted by guys who think they know more than they really do trying to troubleshoot tuning issues. They typically slam in a bunch of parts and cross their fingers. Swap til you drop is not my idea of troubleshooting. And blaming the ECU more because they have no idea how the ECU works.

Again, I am far from an expert here and this is my first time getting deep into tuning a FI engine. Bike runs pretty well now and better than it did bone stock. I did have some problems, mostly in the idle circuit which I carefully and meticulously troubleshot and ultimately fixed. Had I gone to a tuner, he most likely would NOT have fixed any of my problems because all he's focused on are the map cells. And my bank account would be a grand lighter. Of course your mileage may vary so I'm eager to hear about the experiences of other knowledgeable folks on here. I'm here more to learn rather than talk but I also want to give back to this community by sharing what little I know with others.