Some guidelines of the installation on the newer Dynas.
Instructions...
-J03509 09 fwd controll.pdf
The dealers charge between $500 - $600 for this job.
The 06/07 are the same, and the 06/07 kit includes a plug to insert after you remove the shaft. It is a little easier on the pre-2006 model year Dynas.
The 05 and earlier comes with a shaft cover and a bracket to bolt down the the lever. You can install the forwards without removing the primary (with or without removing the shaft).
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's. The 2006 kit comes with a longer rear shift lever that requires you to remove the primary to install it. That longer shift lever will give you more leverage for an easier shift, but it will also increase your throw. Some prefer the shorter throw and it isn't any harder to shift then the original set up. You can also buy the the cheaper 2005 kit because some plan on getting a custom shift rod. You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. Also the 2005 kit comes with a bracket to bolt down the original shift lever, but it is pretty easy to remove, read below.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
You can use a chrome carriage bolt.
http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html,
and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then add some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole.
Part's are found here.
Harley-Davidson | Accessories And Apparel | Genuine Motor Accessories
The above is a workaround so the inner and outer primaries do not have to be removed.
Here's the long route to removing the shift rod.
You will need:
1. A 30mm socket. Some say this is a 1 1/8" socket. I used a 30mm, they're nearly (by less than 1/16th ") the same size.
2. Torque wrenches- one that goes to around 150 ft/lbs and another that can do ft/inches. The big one needs to work in reverse too.
3. Primary Chain case Fluid.
4. The usual sockets you need for work on a harley.
5. Spring clip pliers.
6. Primary Drive Lock Tool
SHOP MANUAL
The instructions that come with the kit simply tell you to remove the inner/outer primary covers, but not how to do it.
Drain the Primary first.
1. Remove the battery, battery box and undo the starter bolts. It says to remove the starter completely but you can work around it. Use your judgment here.
2. Remove the starter. (See point one)
3. Remove the mid-mount shifter and the peg mount.
4. Remove the inspection cover from the outer primary cover.
5. Next, remove the outer primary cover
6. Remove the chain tensioner ( it's spring loaded so use caution here)
7. Lock the primary drive sprocket to the clutch sprocket with the locking tool, and loosen the primary drive bolt.
8. Reverse the locking tool and remove the clutch adjustment bolt, the clutch release plate retaining spring.
9. Once the clutch release plate is out, use your 30mm or 1 1/8" socket and remove the clutch nut. Remember,this is reverse-threaded.
10. The whole compensating sprocket - clutch - chain has to come out.
11. Remove the 5 bolts holding the inner primary casing to the crankcase/trans. The inner case should come off very easily.
12. Remove the mid-control shifter arms and linkage.
13. Install the new shift arm to the transmission
14. Install the new peg mounts in the forward position.
15. Attach the shift linkage to both ends - one on the trans side one on the peg side.
16. Re-install the inner primary
17. Reinstall the compensating socket and the clutch. Torque it to what it says in the manual. Remember that the clutch retaining nut is reverse threaded.
18. Reinstall the starter if removed.
19. Install the clutch release plate and it's retaining ring. Be cautious here, it's easy to strip the threads on this piece, follow the instructions in the manual EXACTLY.
20. Re-install the chain tensioner. The trick here is to "compress" it so it's as small as possible and tie a zip tie around it so it stays together while you install it into the inner primary casing. Torque to specs
21. Re-install the outer primary cover. Torque to specs
22. Add primary fluid.
23. Re-install the inspection cover.
If you feel you are not qualified to do this job, by all means have a dealer do it as a lot of damage can result from improper procedure.
Instructions...
-J03509 09 fwd controll.pdf
The dealers charge between $500 - $600 for this job.
The 06/07 are the same, and the 06/07 kit includes a plug to insert after you remove the shaft. It is a little easier on the pre-2006 model year Dynas.
The 05 and earlier comes with a shaft cover and a bracket to bolt down the the lever. You can install the forwards without removing the primary (with or without removing the shaft).
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's. The 2006 kit comes with a longer rear shift lever that requires you to remove the primary to install it. That longer shift lever will give you more leverage for an easier shift, but it will also increase your throw. Some prefer the shorter throw and it isn't any harder to shift then the original set up. You can also buy the the cheaper 2005 kit because some plan on getting a custom shift rod. You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. Also the 2005 kit comes with a bracket to bolt down the original shift lever, but it is pretty easy to remove, read below.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
You can use a chrome carriage bolt.
http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html,
and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then add some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole.
Part's are found here.
Harley-Davidson | Accessories And Apparel | Genuine Motor Accessories
The above is a workaround so the inner and outer primaries do not have to be removed.
Here's the long route to removing the shift rod.
You will need:
1. A 30mm socket. Some say this is a 1 1/8" socket. I used a 30mm, they're nearly (by less than 1/16th ") the same size.
2. Torque wrenches- one that goes to around 150 ft/lbs and another that can do ft/inches. The big one needs to work in reverse too.
3. Primary Chain case Fluid.
4. The usual sockets you need for work on a harley.
5. Spring clip pliers.
6. Primary Drive Lock Tool
SHOP MANUAL
The instructions that come with the kit simply tell you to remove the inner/outer primary covers, but not how to do it.
Drain the Primary first.
1. Remove the battery, battery box and undo the starter bolts. It says to remove the starter completely but you can work around it. Use your judgment here.
2. Remove the starter. (See point one)
3. Remove the mid-mount shifter and the peg mount.
4. Remove the inspection cover from the outer primary cover.
5. Next, remove the outer primary cover
6. Remove the chain tensioner ( it's spring loaded so use caution here)
7. Lock the primary drive sprocket to the clutch sprocket with the locking tool, and loosen the primary drive bolt.
8. Reverse the locking tool and remove the clutch adjustment bolt, the clutch release plate retaining spring.
9. Once the clutch release plate is out, use your 30mm or 1 1/8" socket and remove the clutch nut. Remember,this is reverse-threaded.
10. The whole compensating sprocket - clutch - chain has to come out.
11. Remove the 5 bolts holding the inner primary casing to the crankcase/trans. The inner case should come off very easily.
12. Remove the mid-control shifter arms and linkage.
13. Install the new shift arm to the transmission
14. Install the new peg mounts in the forward position.
15. Attach the shift linkage to both ends - one on the trans side one on the peg side.
16. Re-install the inner primary
17. Reinstall the compensating socket and the clutch. Torque it to what it says in the manual. Remember that the clutch retaining nut is reverse threaded.
18. Reinstall the starter if removed.
19. Install the clutch release plate and it's retaining ring. Be cautious here, it's easy to strip the threads on this piece, follow the instructions in the manual EXACTLY.
20. Re-install the chain tensioner. The trick here is to "compress" it so it's as small as possible and tie a zip tie around it so it stays together while you install it into the inner primary casing. Torque to specs
21. Re-install the outer primary cover. Torque to specs
22. Add primary fluid.
23. Re-install the inspection cover.
If you feel you are not qualified to do this job, by all means have a dealer do it as a lot of damage can result from improper procedure.
