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DTC Codes and Part Number for 07 Road King Classic

AbnStubby

Member
Howdy!

I had an issue with my "Check Engine" light recently and was reading about using the Odometer display to get any DTC codes.

Just after starting my bike, the "Check Engine" light would come on again briefly then go out. According to my understanding of what I read, this told me it was a historic code that had not been cleared with the last 50 cycles of starting the bike (for more than 30 seconds).

I have made no major changes to the bike. Engine, intake system and exhaust are stock. I do run Amsoil in it and I did change my spark plugs recently (last summer) to Screaming Eagle Triple Platinums.

Bike has been running a bit rough. I chalked this up to drastic temp changes and humidity changes here in the local area. And possibly bad gas(oline).

I ride virtually every day, year round. Unless there's ice!

My 2007 Road King Classic has just hit 20,000 miles. I use 91-octane "Ethanol-free" gas but I don't know how good the gas actually is. It used to be we would roam around looking for "good" gas, now we look for "Ethanol-free" gas. For some reason the "Ethanol-free" stuff doesn't always mean we're getting the "good" stuff!

Following Glider's step-by-step for diagnostic codes, I came up with the following. (Note: I did not clear these codes yet...wanted to find out what caused them first)

Two DTC codes:

P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0152 Rear 02 sensor high (rich)


The part number that was displayed was: 32915-07 (although a Google search returned nothing under this part number)

Any ideas on the cause? What part number was displayed? Are the two codes related to each other? Should I clear them or let the dealer take a look? (The bike is still under warranty)

Thanks for any assistance you can offer.


Stubby
 
The P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
Is engine temp sensor on the rear of the front cylinder head. Could be a bad sensor or wire causing it.

The P0152 Rear 02 sensor high (rich) is probably a bad 02 sensor or wiring to it.

The 32915-07 is nothing to be concerned about, it's a part number of the unit itself.Record the codes and clear them to see if they reset again and if they do take it into the dealer for replacement.
 
Sound to me like you might have a problem with your oxygen sensor. The part number is not related to the codes. If it's under warranty I'd let the dealer change the oxygen sensor, or do what ever they think it is. I assume your not running a fuel tuner right?
 
Thanks for the quick reply y'all. I will head back out and clear the codes. Once I do that, if they're gonna come back, how fast do you think they will do so?

And no, no F/I tuner on the bike. All stock. Thanks again, I'll let you know if the codes come back.
 
Hard to tell, right away if it's a currently a problem, or not at all if it was just an intermittent problem.
 
Thanks for the quick reply y'all. I will head back out and clear the codes. Once I do that, if they're gonna come back, how fast do you think they will do so?

And no, no F/I tuner on the bike. All stock. Thanks again, I'll let you know if the codes come back.


Difficult to say. it could be as soon as it warms up if the voltages to the ECM are out of parameters or not.
 
Ethanol has nothing to do with it theres is nothing wrong with running Ethanol and no reason not to in your HD


I noticed my gas mileage went down about 5 miles to the gallon on ethanol.:(
 
All...

Cleared the codes...no problem. Took the bike out for about a 30 mile ride at highway speeds to get the engine heated up. Shut it down halfway for about 5 mins and then started it back up and rode home.
So far, no check engine light after I start the bike. Everything "seems" fine.
Codes appear to be cleared for now.

I've read the endless debates about Ethanol, figured it was best to steer clear of it. Hard to determine what's good gas and what isn't. I've even heard lower octane fuel is good in the wintertime. Not being a "Jedi-level" Harley guy yet, I just kinda go with the consensus and what seems right for the bike.
It's interesting trying to wade through the Oil debates and exhaust, F/I tuners, and fuel debates. As long as the bike starts when I need it to and runs till I need to shut it off, I'm pretty happy. A good running, safe bike that lasts (with proper maintenance) is really all I need. I leave the Cubic Inch gurus and stoplight-to-stoplight fanatics alone.

I'll get to the point someday where I can pretty much maintain the bike on my own but I'm not there yet. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and lending a hand.

I really appreciate it!

Okay... As I wrote before, I cleared the codes. Bike ran fine for a day or two.

Today the wife and I took off for a short ride. We had gone about 40 miles or so, pulled off for a short stop and upon starting the bike again the "Check Engine" light came on again and the bike started running VERY rough and sporadic.

It went from idling very high to barely running at all. (In my head and due to the codes I got before reference the O2 sensors, I was thinking the engine was getting confusing signals and didn't know what fuel-air mixture to run or where to idle)

The check engine light stayed on so I shut the bike down for a few mins and then ran the Odometer DTC diagnostic.

Under the ECM/ICM check the display read "no response", so I had no idea what was wrong.

I started the bike again and the check engine light was going off and on sporadically.

It seemed to settle down a bit and we headed home.

No DTC codes are coming up in any of the other DIAG areas.

Still getting "no response" under the ECM section.

I am trying to set something up with the local dealer to get it checked out. Any ideas from you guys would be helpful. I suspect it has something to do with the codes we discussed before.


Thanks!

Stubby
 
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Usually the no response is what you get if you try the DTC procedure with the run/stop switch in the stop position. Check the plug on the ECM, make sure it is fully seated and free of corrosion.
 
Thanks again for the replies and info. I took the bike in to the local dealer. Turns out the wire for the Engine Temp Sensor that we discussed was unplugged and was causing all kinds of other problems! Go figure. If I knew more about what & where to look I probably could've figured that one out on my own. Well, live & learn I guess.

They tweaked some other things for me as well though so it was a worthwhile trip. And since the bike was still under warranty, it cost exactly $0.

Ride safe!

Stubby :D
 
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