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Drive Pulley 27 to 30 tooth

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diljera

Member
hi all,

I just purchased a 30 tooth front drive pulley and I was wondering if anyone had some tips to make the installation go smoothly. A few questions;

1. Is the sprocket nut and main-shaft reverse or normal thread?

2. Assuming there is a butt-load of torque on the sprocket nut what is the safest way to break it loose without damaging the transmission gears?

3. Do I need a gear puller if so what type would be best (and cheapest)?

4. Do I need to apply lock-tight, antisieze or nothing to the spline before installation of the new pulley?

5. Is the stock 883 belt large enough for the 30 tooth pulley?

6. If you've done this to your bike, what did you think of the change?

Diljera
 
Hi Diljera

1. Reverse.
2. You'll need a 1 7/8 socket wih a 3/4 drive. It's a biggy. It helps to leave the belt on so you can put it in gear. (to stop the nut from turning). Red loctite is used on the sprocket nut, so yes, buttload of torque necessary.
3. No.
4. Nothing goes on the spline. Loctite is used on the nut and plate screws.
5. No idea.
6. No idea.

I removed the front pulley in anticipation of installing a chain conversion which I never received.

Johalber
 
In addition to what johalber... said.

It helps if you have an air impact wrench, really helps...

The belt should be fine.

I hope you did the 1200 conversion because you will lose rear wheel torque with this change.

I just went the other way, going from the stock 29T on my 1200 to a 27T, I have a 6 speed so I don't loose any top speeds and the extra torque in all gears is way fun...

Sopana
 
I change mine on my 71' and I have a lot more gear in 3rd and 4th. It's a real nice ride now and top is a little too.

HillBill
 
Torque is definitely a blast, I was hoping the loss won't be to much. The bike has the wiseco 1200 kit in it with drag pipes. The service manual mentions removing the exhaust pipe to remove the sprocket, is this necessary?

Diljera
 
Yes, I had to remove my pipes (stock) to get to everything. I left the rear master cylinder
attached to the brake line just moved it out of the way.

Karthy
 
I just purchased a 30 tooth front drive pulley and I was wondering if anyone had some tips to make the installation go smoothly. A few questions;

1. Is the sprocket nut and main-shaft reverse or normal thread? Left hand thread (reverse)

2. Assuming there is a butt-load of torque on the sprocket nut what is the safest way to break it loose without damaging the transmission gears? 120 foot-pounds, with red loctite. It's a thin nut, so you probably need to grind off the lead in chamfer on a 1-7/8" socket to get the socket to sit securely. Be sure to grind square – best method is to face it off in a lathe. I have a 7-spoke mag wheel in the back, so I left the belt on, and stuck a 2 X 4 in there and let it jam against the swingarm to keep things from turning. If you have a spokes or a solid wheel, I'd recommend you chock up the wheels, and have a buddy apply rear brake to help hold it. I think it's gonna be a bitch unless you can stop the rear wheel from turning.

3. Do I need a gear puller if so what type would be best (and cheapest)? No gear puller
needed. The old pulley should slide right off, unless it's corroded to the spline.

4. Do I need to apply lock-tight, antisieze or nothing to the spline before installation of the new pulley? I'd clean off any debris / corrosion with a brass wire brush. I suspect that your new pulley is hard anodized aluminum. If that's the case, I recommend you install it dry. If your new pulley is steel, I'd recommend a very light coat of WD-40 (or similar) applied to the spline with a Q-Tip.

5. Is the stock 883 belt large enough for the 30 tooth pulley? Yes. The new 30-tooth pulley will pull your rear wheel forward about 3/8" from where it was with the 27-tooth pulley.

6. If you've done this to your bike, what did you think of the change? I think it's the best
modification for the dollars spent that I ever made on my '92. I should note that I did an
883-1200 conversion at the same time, so I have no true benchmark to compare before and after. But it reduced my 65mph rpm's by about 350. In fact, I'm thinkin' of changing my rear pulley from the stock 61-tooth to 55-tooth, to further reduce highway speed rpm's. I've only had this on the bike for a year or so, I'm still not used to the higher mph I need to be at before I upshift. For example, I was comfortable at 40-45mph in 5th gear without lugging before the change, now I really need to be above 50mph in most cases to be in 5th gear

Babella
 
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