Diagnosing Transmission Problems

Some problems that come up and where you might find the solution....

Difficulty Shifting.
When you need excessive clutch lever pressure to shift gears, it may indicate either a clutch problem or a transmission problem. If the clutch is at fault , you will notice symptoms such as grinding gears when you shift into low or first gear. In most cases if the clutch is at fault, a simple adjustment will solve the problem. If the transmission is at fault you will notice difficult shifting between other gears while the motorcycle is moving. this problem may indicate a bent shift fork or possibly a seized gear on the transmission shaft. When a shift fork is damaged, it no longer fits properly in the grooves of the gear.
To fix this problem, you'll need to disassemble the unit and replace the shift fork. When a gear has seized on the transmission shaft the problem is usually caused by a lack of proper lubrication. As with the shift fork, you will also need to disassemble the engine to repair the problem on sporties.

Inability to shift gears.
Occasionally you'll find a machine that shifts into one gear, but won't shift into the next gear. This problem is often caused by the shift return spring which returns the shifting lever to its original position. You can usually repair this problem by replacing the spring. The spring is usually located near the clutch assembly. In most cases, you wont need to completely disassemble the engine to repair the problem

Strange Sound.
Unusual sounds may range from a low growl to a high pitched whine below I'll describe the most common noises which indicate a transmission problem. Any unusual noise coming from the transmission will require you to disassemble and carefully inspect for worn or broken parts

Constant Growling sound
A low growling sound usually indicates a bearing failure. when a bearing fails, it may cause a transmission shaft to move slightly out of position. When this occurs, the gears do not mesh properly and produce a low growling noise. In these case not only do you need to replace the bearing, but you will most likely need to replace the gears as well.

Clunking Noise
An excessive clunking sound when the engine is in a particular gear while under load usually indicates broken teeth on one or more gears. In this case, you'll need to replace the gears, the shift fork, and the shift drum as needed.

Jumping Out of Gear.
When dogs and slots become to rounded, the gears will tend to slip out of the holes when the engine rpm increases, and the transmission jumps out of gear. The shift forks may also become damaged from the excessive pressure they encounter as the transmission jumps out of gear. Therefore, when a transmission is jumping out of gear, you'll need to replace the gears, the shift forks, and the shift drum as needed after an inspection of these parts..

 

Quote from Mr. Data "Constant Growling sound
A low growling sound usually indicates a bearing failure. when a bearing fails, it may cause a transmission shaft to move slightly out of position. When this occurs, the gears do not mesh properly and produce a low growling noise. In these case not only do you need to replace the bearing, but you will most likely need to replace the gears as well. "

I took the glide in for the constant sound, and a vibration, and they have said the transmission main bearing is bad.....Also front motor mount is shot as well......good thing I bought the extended warranty as the dealer has said it is covered and approved thru the warranty. I got about 31,500 miles on it, The noise started a few months ago, about 3500 miles after changing from Syn3 {:devil} to Amsoil:33:. I put Spectro 6-speed :small3d018:in it about 1500 miles ago, and what a difference, it all but took that whiney/growling sound away and made for easy shifting (fall right into gear with minimal effort). I started to worry when the noise was getting louder again:no, and also picked up a vibration under throttle:no:no, so I decided it needed an experts touch. {I hope he's an expert lol:lolrolling} They said today that it won't be done til saturday, so I guess we will see when I get her back how it is........
I gotta ask.....Is this the problem they were having on the 06 Dyna's? & What could have caused this failure (besides MoCo using "cheap" parts)? I am curious because if it's something I did wrong or neglected to do:no, I can square myself away:small3d022:, and avoid this in the future...

Thanks!:cheers

 

The Syn 3 in the trans didn't help you any, there have been other problems with the transmissions running Syn 3 . Quite possible the same problem as the Dynas but I doubt you contributed to the problem. More than likely the cause was the poor quality bearings being used by the factory. Once they switch suppliers, the problem doesn't happen like it did, only an occasional one.

 

Yeah the SYN 3 was before I was properly edjumacated!! lol:lolrolling Many thanks to you Mr. Data, and all here who have edjumacated me! :small3d018: I'm on my way now to give them a quart of Spectro 6-speed lube to put in there when they put it back together...And the good thing about it being red is I will know if they don't put it back in there....:devil

Thanks again!:cheers

 

I am curious. With all these oil changes over the course of 4 thousand miles, what did the magnet on the drain plug look like? Was there evidence something was going south?

Tks

 

Noi problem, I'm glad somebody listens :lolrolling

 

When I drained the syn-3 there was a good amount on it, nothing to crazy, but could definitely tell it was metal. I had a friend of mine helping me, since it was my first time and he has a lot more experience, he said it looked like the stealer hadn't changed it the last time I paid for it to be done. My friend told me to keep an eye on it, which I did. The noise didn't start till I had about 3,500 miles on the am soil, and after a day of riding a few hundred miles in 108* Oklahoma/Texas Summer weather. I originally thought the sound was from my tires, which the weights fell off of on that hot day, So then had the both tires changed which were needed, and rear brakes as well done at an Indy. Still there, so I double checked the belt tension. When I drained the am soil out it really wasn't that bad, there was a little bit of what I would call "gunk" on it, no chunks or anything like that, but not a lot IMO..... But I'm really not sure what would be considered normal, since the few times I have done mine there was an existing problem. I would assume "new" you'd have a little, but once it's broke in, you'd have a little to no "gunk".

So Hoople to answer your question (I think), yes there was a sign when I drained the syn-3, but nothing really after. I guess I should have at the least documented the stuff that came out there with the syn3 with a picture, and then spoke to the stealer to see what they think, and payed a little closer attention to that and changed the amsoil @ 2500, to check it out.

 

Very interesting info and thanks for the feedback . I am always interested in what leads up to the event. Glad it will be covered by warranty.

Hoop!

 

FYI

When using a "quality" transmission lube (not syn 3), it should come out looking pretty much the same as far as looks when it went in AND there should be virtually no metal on the magnet. The more metal on the magnet the worse the lube is doing to lube the trans.

You'll see drain plugs that are running Syn 3 will come out looking like Don Kings Hair style. That's metal off the gears that shouldn't be there on the magnet.

 

Mr. Data, I asked this on another thread. Why does the Spectro 6 speed trans oil that you highly recommend state on their site it should be changed out every 5K when the HD manual states every 20K? Just wanted to know why such miles difference. Thanks for any help on this.