free website stats program Crankshaft run out blues | Page 3 | Harley Davidson Forums

Crankshaft run out blues

I agree with Dolt (not that that means all that much). Synthetic is slick. That is normally what is good about it. Dino is just a bit less slick. You need a bit of abrasion to seat rings good. Less slick is good for that, even if it is only a touch less slick. They will likely seat with synthetic. It will may take a bit longer though. How much longer, I would be reticent to guess. Maybe the difference is not significant, but that is the common thought on the matter (as if you guys did not already know that).

That's my 2 cents...

Good luck,
Rich P
 
my Indy mechanic uses Revtech dino oil,i'm going to seat the rings on this change the oil and filter at 500 miles (put mobil1 vtwin 20w-50) and not look back lol ok i'm thinking here .....i'm gonna throw you guys a curve ball...how about breaking an engine in on Lucas semi synthetic?????
 
my Indy mechanic uses Revtech dino oil,i'm going to seat the rings on this change the oil and filter at 500 miles (put mobil1 vtwin 20w-50) and not look back lol ok i'm thinking here .....i'm gonna throw you guys a curve ball...how about breaking an engine in on Lucas semi synthetic?????

Not a curve. Your ride, you get to decide.:unsure
 
been thinking i'll change it at 100(dino oil)500(dino oil) then 1000 and go to mobil1 vtwin 20w-50

wondering if i'm the first forum member to have crankshaft runout issues on a pure stock twincam 88? i don't remember ever seeing a post about it
 
I broke my motor in with synthetic oil in it. 60,000 miles later and I have no oil burning issues and absolutely no blowby.
 
I broke my motor in with synthetic oil in it. 60,000 miles later and I have no oil burning issues and absolutely no blowby.

syn3?STEVE07
i like the idea of putting my brand engine oil in right off the get go.but i guess i'm gun shy after reading dino oil seats the rings better but for the life of me i can't understand how an oil that does not lube as well can seat rings better just can't understand it,now not ever luging the engine and not over revving the engine during break in makes perfect sense to me
 
Last edited:
syn3?STEVE07
i like the idea of putting my brand engine oil in right off the get go.but i guess i'm gun shy after reading dino oil seats the rings better but for the life of me i can't understand how an oil that does not lube as well can seat rings better just can't understand it,now not ever luging the engine and not over revving the engine during break in makes perfect sense to me
Here is what I understand. Builders can chime in to correct, as may be necessary.

With a new build, the jugs are freshly honed. That means that they have been finished with a non-glazed, fine cross-cut finish. This virgin finish allows the brand new rings, which are true, but not specifically fit for your jugs, to wear just enough to fit to your specific jugs. At the same time, the cross-cut finish on the inside of the jugs is smoothed to match the rings. It is a mutual adaptation of jugs and rings. Once the micro-fitting of rigs to jugs is done (seating), initial wear of both tapers off to what will be the case for the life of jugs and rings. The first 50-100 miles is the critical time, during which, the fitting wear will occur. You change the oil out after that period to eliminate the micro-particles, that come primarily from the inside surface of the jugs.

If you have really slick lubrication during the first critical period, the necessary fitting will take longer. Is the difference between the consistent molecule size of synthetic lube and the more random Dino lube enough to significantly affect the ring seating period? Possibly not. One thing for sure, you do not want to run the engine at consistent loads and rpms during the initial period. You want as much variation in those 2 inputs as possible, so you do not seat for any specific set of conditions only.

Here is incentive for initial Dino lube: You are going to thow away your full tank of oil after 50-100 miles. You want a decent oil in there? or an expensive one? I suggest you put in an adequate one, then put in the good stuff later, when you can keep it.

As Dolt said, "It is your ride. You get to decide." You won't kill your machine either way. Dino is less slick. Break in will be faster, but maybe only just. Synthetic is slicker, break in may take longer, but maybe not detectably. A Dino/Syn blend will be in between there, somewhere. How you ride her during the break-in period is the absolute most important variable, over which you have control.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
I agree with Ribeye. The first 80% of ring sealing comes very quickly (first hour or so), it's the next little bit that takes a little longer. This is why you want to run out the first 1000-1500 miles with dino oil that's less slick. Then switch over. Even Amsoil has a SAE 30 break in oil then after 1000 miles they recommend going to full synthetic.
 
I broke my motor in with synthetic oil in it. 60,000 miles later and I have no oil burning issues and absolutely no blowby.

New build or are you referring to break in of a newly purchased bike? The new bikes, except the CVO models, are delivered with synthetic and are run in briefly on a load drum before they leave the assembly line. So, the break in process is started at the factory and one really doesn't have a choice with a newly purchased bike.

I believe this thread is about new DIY builds where one has a choice between breaking in with synthetic or conventional oil. Given that choice, most builders will opt for conventional but that is not to say adequate ring seal cannot be achieved on break in with synthetic; just that break in with conventional is preferred by most motorcycle engine builders.

The thread is not knocking synthetics, just discussing the choice of synthetic or conventional for break in on DIY builds. Below is an excerpt from an article on motorcycle engine break in and oil; the link is to the complete article which may be of interest to some following this thread and hi-lites some of the points in Ribeye's post.

We asked four top motorcycle engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. Here is a capsulation of their responses.

"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over."


New Engine Break-in Procedure
 
Back
Top