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Check Engine Light comes on then goes off. Loose power to speedometer and odometer..

B

bigcity

Member
Check engine light comes on for a few minutes then goes off. When the check engine light is on my speedometer and odometer sometimes loose power. Speedometer will drop to 0 and the odometer display is blank for a few minutes then they come back. Haven't rode at night when this is going on so I don't know if I loose power to the headlamps/light as well. Engine runs fine and doesn't stall or shut down. It doesn't happen consistently but does happen at some point when riding.

Any ideas appreciated or things to check.

Thanks
 
Try jiggling the ignition to see if you can simulate it or the wires harness. sounds like a loose connection or a short
 
Very very simple to remove the single nut that holdes the gauge and lights in place to check the wiring. Most likely its a loose wire or a wire has been scraped and is grounding itself. I would start there and work my way down to the fuse.
 
Mine was doing the same thing and it turned out to be the voltage regulator was letting too many volts get to the battery. Pull the seat and start the bike up. Put a volt meter on the battery, rev the engine up to about 3500 rpm. You should have 14.3-14.7 volts. Any more and the regulator is shot and is overloading the electrical section. If this isn't the problem then you will have to see what error code is being thrown. I tried doing it per the link above and didn't have any luck. I took mine to the dealer and they charged me 1/2hr labor rate to tell me what code is being thrown.

Randall
 
Had same problem with my '04 FLSTCI a couple of years ago. It was a day when I was out in very cold wet weather (sleet/snow) and put in a couple of hundred miles. I suspect it was just some water in the electrics because I've not had the same problem since.

Can't quite recall, but I think I had the engine codes checked and there were no fault codes stored!

Neil
 
R.Bingham said:
Mine was doing the same thing and it turned out to be the voltage regulator was letting too many volts get to the battery. Pull the seat and start the bike up. Put a volt meter on the battery, rev the engine up to about 3500 rpm. You should have 14.3-14.7 volts. Any more and the regulator is shot and is overloading the electrical section. If this isn't the problem then you will have to see what error code is being thrown. I tried doing it per the link above and didn't have any luck. I took mine to the dealer and they charged me 1/2hr labor rate to tell me what code is being thrown.

Randall
Click to expand...

OMG..where do I start... Bought my FLSTF new in '07. First week I had it, the check engine light came on, my speedo dropped to 0 and as soon as I let off the throttle, it died. I love my bike but it has been in and out of the shop for the same problem ever since. As a matter of fact it is in as we speak. So far they have said they found a crimp in a wire causing too much resistance to the speedo relay and ignition relay ( which I thought was (EDITED)). They have replaced the ECM. They have replaced the FOBs, they have replaced the tip sensors. The list goes on and on. HD corporate says they have never heard of this problem. Seriously, the bike has been returned at LEAST a dozen times. The CVO/Screaming Eagle rep supposedly looked at it today. There was a hint at replacing the wiring harness. I'm leaning more towards replacing the whole bike. Nothing like losing power while going through the turns with a passenger on the back.

and also.....it never throws error codes for my bike. Which is why they even replaced the run/stop switch at opne point. Figured that if there were no codes then the computer obviously thinks it is doing something it was told to do. It didn't fix it either.

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Here's what the TBW bikes face, H-D bulletin below.
It could be a problem on earlier EFI models also.

Al

:USA
:CONNECTICUT
 

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