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Charging System Is Low

I would for sure check the rotor .. its the other main part that makes the power and if its the only thing not changed and still the same problem welll:D
 
I went to the tech page AGAIN and tested the stator and rectifier. The stator is just a little short of the minimum vdc per 1000 rpm. I put a negative mutimeter probe on ground and tested each prong of the two prong plug to the stator. One showed zero volts and the other showed at 20 vdc a reading of .2 volts. I have ordered a new rotor and i think I may add a new rectifier to that order. The stator shows infinity from one plug to its mating one but Zero ohms to ground. I also put in a new circuit breaker today just in case. So when all the stuff I ordered comes in every thing will have been replaced at least twice. I have a feeling it is a combination of the two that gives me erratic readings. Fossil

Oops, the third line should have said rectifier. Fossil
 
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I went to the tech page AGAIN and tested the stator and rectifier. The stator is just a little short of the minimum vdc per 1000 rpm. I put a negative mutimeter probe on ground and tested each prong of the two prong plug to the stator. One showed zero volts and the other showed at 20 vdc a reading of .2 volts. I have ordered a new rotor and i think I may add a new rectifier to that order. The stator shows infinity from one plug to its mating one but Zero ohms to ground. I also put in a new circuit breaker today just in case. So when all the stuff I ordered comes in every thing will have been replaced at least twice. I have a feeling it is a combination of the two that gives me erratic readings. Fossil

When you are checking the Vac, you just check across the stator plugs. The 20 Vac/1,000 rpm is just a rule of thumb. The actual range for my bike is 19-26 Vac/1,000 rpm. I have the 45 amp high output system. The low output (38 amp range is 16-20 Vac/1,000 rpm.

From what you said, seems like your stator is shorted to ground. You are supposed to have no continuity from either socket to ground, and less than .5 ohms across the sockets.

Does your primary fluid smell burnt? When you pull the rotor off the engine drive shaft, you will see immediately if the coils are shorted (they will be burnt).

Whatever you do, you need to match the rotor and stator for the amperage you are looking for. Also, the VR needs to be the right one for that amperage.

TQ
 
I tried to correct my last post by pointing out in the third sentence that I meant stator and not rectifier. The stator has tested zero on ground. I think the rotor is damaged and will replace it plus secure the stator plus better. If this is no go I have just enough money in the budget to replace the rectifier. Then this old disabled vet is out of money for awhile. Fossil
 
YEEEEEEEEEEEHAW!!!!!!!! I have finally got my alternator system to alternate and charge the battery. I had a new rotor put on today and the altenator put out the right voltage but not to the battery. I had to get a new rectifier and now every thing is running right. I had to have every thing in the system replaced twice to get it working right. The mechanic who was doing the work for the price of the parts says he has never had a charging sysem be this much trouble in his life. I think part of it was buying the cheapest parts, my clumsyness and bad luck. Thanks every one for helping out. Ol Blue is running right now. I'm broke but happy. Fossil
 
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